Castles and historic sites from Cumbria and (sometimes) farther afield. (if you wish to use any of the photos from this blog, please do me the courtesy of asking first.....all images and text are copyright Matthew Emmott)
It's plain to see that this type of defence would not have withstood even the most lightly armed and determined army....but groups of mounted raiders, as so often seen on the English and Scottish side of the border throughout the middle ages, would probably have had a tough job gaining entry, and then escaping with cattle and other livestock.
The pele tower can be seen on the right hand side of the photo below, attached to a later 17th century house. Originally the tower would probably have had a flat roof, possibly with crenellations, but as so often happens with these buildings, when they are converted to primary residences, and the need for defence recedes, steepled\gabled roofs are often added.
The second site here, is the ringwork upon which the church of St James is built.
The summit of the ringwork measures around 50m by 35m, and sits high above the River Eden (Ormside Hall is less than a hundred yards away) The site is certainly very ancient, with a Viking burial being found here in 1898.

Aerial photos of the site on the Visit Cumbria web site ( http://www.visitcumbria.com/pen/greatormside.htm and http://www.visitcumbria.com/pen/chp16.htm ) clearly show that the ringwork was built in a good defensive location, with open views across the surrounding countryside, and a prominent position above the bend in the river.
The third site, is the tower of the church of St James, built high up on the top of the ringwork. The church, which dates from the 11th century (making the church one of the oldest in Cumbria) has no doorway in the outside walls(existing or blocked) and no windows, save for some narrow slit like openings on two external walls. The tower would have been entered only from the inside of the attached building\church\chapel.

There are still 12th century windows in the south side of the nave, and 12th century walls to the East of the tower. These remains may indicate the last vestiges of the original building to which the tower was originally attached, and in which locals may have sought refuge when raiding parties made their unwelcome visits.
The tower's walls are up to a metre thick, and with its position high above the surrounding countryside, it's not hard to imagine this building as a defensive structure. I think the lack of an external door, and the thin slit like windows also adds strength to this idea.


It's difficult to find any information regarding these remains, but if anything crops up, it will be added here. The moat can be viewed from the graveyard behind the church, although the undergrowth is very thick.

A south aisle was added around 1200 and perhaps in the 13th century the chancel was extended to the east. The archways in the South of the nave, erected at this time, still survive, testament to the Norman origins of this church.
The Beetham chapel, in the South East corner of the church was added late in the 14th century, and contains some interesting stained glass. The two windows in the South wall of this chapel retain some of their original 15th century glass....all that remains from the original windows, smashed by a 'mob' at the time of the Commonwealth in the mid 1600's. The first window contains four elements. A kingly figure with an orb and mace, the head and shoulders of a man, possibly another king and possibly holding an orb, a shield (possibly) with various designs, and a fourth and tiny piece of stained glass with an indistinguishable design.




The second site is a barn that lays about a mile and a half to the South, in a field above the A5824 that runs from Plumgarth's roundabout into Windermere Road above Kendal. This barn was probably built in the late 16th century, was definiately inhabited at some point, and is still intact and used by the farm for storage. This building has the original windows with moulded labels, now blocked and thick walls, and may have represented the original hall with its light fortifications.
I haven't visited the 'barn' yet, but as soon as I have photos of it, they will be posted here.
The third site, and marked on late 17th century, and early 18th century maps as Helsfell, is at the top of Windermere Road and at the foot of Kendal Fell. There are no original buildings here now, but the site has been redeveloped recently and is now occupied.
Helsfell Hall (wherever it may originally have been) was home to the Phillipson family, a locally landed family. It's possible that the only remains of the original building, are some original re-set mullioned windows (relating to the present Helsfell Hall) Probably the most famous (local) son of the Phillipson family, was Robin Phillipson, known as Robin the Devil....so called after he rode into Kendal Church on horseback, whilst chasing an adversary, Colonel Briggs, and losing his helmet and sword on the way out as he was set upon by the church congregation (so legend has it!!) The sword and helmet are still to be seen today, mounted high up on the church walls.
The Remains of John Briggs, published in 1825, describes Grayrigg Hall as "now in ruins, was a strong manor house, of a quadrangular form, belonging to the Duckets". It was also described as "adapted more for defence than for convenience".....indicating that it wasn't just a house or a home to the Duckets, but a possible place of refuge for them. In 1777, it was described as "totally in ruins, most of the lead and timber thereof, being removed to Lowther". It seems that, in 1670, Anthony Ducket sold the hall and the Grayrigg estates, to Sir John Lowther, and upon his death, the Ducket family name became extinct in the Westmorland area....the hall soon falling into disrepair.
I haven't visited Benson Hall yet...but as usual, as soon as I have, I'll post the photos here.
The motte and bailey castle is very well defined, and is easily accessible. Each part of the earthwork remains is readily identifiable: motte, bailey, ditches and ramparts all surviving intact.The motte stands to nearly 30 feet, and is still surrounded by a well defined ditch which measures around 20 feet at the widest points. The ditch ceases on the South side of the motte, with the natural defences of the steep cliff face taking over.
The motte’s summit measures around 9metres by 7 metres. The summit is slightly dished shaped, probably caused by the building of a WWII lookout outpost (with concrete remains also in the bailey below) The bailey laying to the West of the motte, is around 30 metres by 20 metres.
The castle may have been erected by Robert to Mowbray in around 1092, possibly the same time that Castle Howe in Kendal was also being built.
There is a well marked footpath that leads right to the remains.
The site consists of a group of buildings based around the remains of a 16th century tower. What is seen today is the result of early 19th century renovation and rebuilding by Kendalian architect George Webster, and subsequent redevelopment in the last two years, turning the ‘hall’ into a number of individual dwellings.
The original tower was at the North end of the site, with a hall range and an additional cross wing at the South end. The tower was in a serious state of disrepair when George Webster redesigned the site, and the hall had all but disappeared. The cross wing has been incorporated into the main house\building. The original pele tower is easily identifiable these days….with its tall cylindrical stair tower with high crenellations.
There is still the old gardeners cottage at the entrance to the hall’s grounds, with its tower and crenellations still intact. This was a later addition, designed and built by George Webster, and therefore has no connection with the original tower and house.
The hall is now in private hands, but a footpath does run along the driveway and through the end of the gardens, offering fairly good views of the pele tower and the rest of the buildings.


The abbey was probably founded in 1199 by Thomas de Workington , after the abbey of St Mary Magdalene, founded near Preston Patrick in 1192, was moved to the area around Shap….then referred to as Hepp (meaning a heap) The name of the area gradually evolved into the town’s name that we see today, of Shap. Nothing now remains of the original abbey near Preston Patrick, with the exact location long since forgotten.The abbey was granted huge swathes of land throughout the old county of Westmorland, including deer parks and sheep grazing. The canons were allowed to put 60 cows and 500 sheep to pasture on the land, as well as 5 yoke of oxen, and additional 60 mares allowed to run freely. The canons were also allowed to freely collect firewood, timber and other ‘necessaries’ from the land.
The remains are approached down a dedicated road that runs from the A6 right down into the bottom of the valley. A small car park caters for the many summer visitors. The first sight of the abbey is the 15th century West tower, still standing to a grand height of around 80 feet. The abbey is entered through a stile\gateway. Once into the abbey remains, enter through the huge archway of the tower…..this takes you into the Nave, the main body of the church, with the Quire and the chapel ahead of you. Most of the remains here only exist to ground level…..i.e. the footings of walls etc, however, small parts do still exist to around chest height.
Off to the right of the nave, the remains of the undercroft still survive, with the consolidated barrel vaulted ceilings intact and in good condition. The cemetery area, to the right of the chapel can be seen by the riverside, although the only graves that can be traced now are the three open trough like features that lay in the cloister area.
The farm, to the right of the tower incorporates the abbey’s infirmary and the ward of the hospital…. utilising the still standing buildings there. Much more masonry was removed in the dim and distant past and used to build Shap market hall, and the more decorative stonework was removed and used in the building of Lowther Castle.The abbey initially managed to escape the first destructive phase of Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries acts in 1536….but the demise of the abbey was only delayed until 1540, when it was sold to the Governor of Carlisle, Sir Thomas Wharton. Shap was the last abbey in England to be dissolved by Henry’s agents, with the last abbot, Richard Evanwode (or Bagott as he called himself) receiving a significant pension of around £40 per year. The other canons still living at the abbey at this time were pensioned off with more meagre payouts…totalling around £4 to £6 per year.
Today, the abbey is in the hands of English Heritage, and is freely accessible at any reasonable time.
The link with Rievaulx Abbey in Yorkshire is an educated guess, owing much to the fact that written records indicate that the Abbot of Rievaulx visited Dundrennan in 1164. Added to this, the fact that on about two occasions, monks or abbots from Dundrennan moved to Rievaulx to become Abbots there as well.
The Abbey was probably built over a 50 year period, with a tight-knit group of around 13 monks and 10 laymen conducting most of the work. Upon its completion, Dundrennan became the ‘mother’ house for two other Cistercian abbeys in the Galloway area; Glenluce Abbey, founded in 1191 by Roland, Lord of Galloway, and Sweetheart Abbey, founded in 1273 by Lady Devorgilla (in memory of John Balliol, her husband)
As you look at the remains of the Abbey from the car park, what would have been the largest part of the building, the Nave is now nothing more than a large open space with the remains of the walls surviving to around three feet in places. Only one of the Nave support pillars survives above ground, with the others surviving to ground level only. The North and South Transepts still stand to a significant height, although various walls are missing from all portions of this part of the building. The tall wall with the arched doorway would have formed the outer West wall of the Nave, with two small doorways just visible, blocked with masonry. The surviving arched door way would have been the main entrance to the Nave, and survives nearly intact. The walls of the cellars and the outer parlour also survive to make up the rest of the outer perimeter of the site. The monk’s cemetery lies beyond the Nave and can just be seen through the ruins. The Sacristy and the Chapter House still survive to some height, and lay to the right of the photo.
During the 13th century wars between England and Scotland, the Abbey declared its allegiance to the English King Edward I as he invaded the Scotland. The declaration seems to have done the Abbey no good however, as it was seriously damaged by marauding English troops in 1299.
The 14th and 16th centuries saw the fortunes of the Abbey rising, as the monks became almost self sufficient in food and fuel, and began to export wool to mainland Europe.
In 1523, the last abbot at Dundrennan was promoted to the Bishop of Ross, and a lay administrator was appointed to take care of the day to day running of the Abbey. When the Reformation began to take hold in 1560, the Abbey did not escape the attentions of Henry VIII’s agents. It was demanded that the Abbey, like so many others throughout the kingdom, be demolished and stripped of its riches. The current administrator of the Abbey, Edward Maxwell refused to follow these instructions, and somehow managed to persuade Henry’s agents to leave the building standing. So, although monastic life was banned, and indeed ceased, the church was still used as a parish church. This continued right up until the 17th century, by which time the Abbey was in a serious state of disrepair.
An interesting side note in Scottish history…..in 1568, Mary Queen of Scots, after being forced to flee from Langside, spent her last night in Scotland at the Abbey, before making her ill-fated trip to Workington, and thence to her eventual execution in 1587 at Fotheringhay Castle.
In 1621 the demise of the Abbey and its lands was signalled when they were annexed by the crown, and then in the 1650’s the church was no longer in use, with services being conducted at nearby Rerwick.
The Abbey was taken into state care in 1842, with some renovation work being carried out at this time, mainly to consolidate the ruins, but also to prevent the quarrying of stone from the remains. It’s said that many houses in Dundrennan contain stone from the Abbey.
The Abbey is now in the hands of Historic Scotland and the remains can be viewed for a small admittance fee. The car park nearby is free and expressly for the use of visitors.