The Red Tower, York

The Red Tower
Foss Islands Road
York
Yorkshire

The Red Tower sits on the Eastern extremities of York's defences. It was the last line of defence at the Northern tip of the city's walls as they run along side what is now Foss Islands Road. There were no stone defences between the Red Tower and the Layerthorpe Postern (now gone) which left about a half mile gap in the walls. However....the land here was considered impassable due to the Kings Fishpool. This artificial marshland was created after 1069 when the Normans damned the River Foss where it joined the River Ouse. The result was that the moat around Cliffords Tower and the rest of the castle was filled with water, and the lower lying area upstream also became flooded thus creating the Kings Fishpool. It is estimated that around 100 acres of 'good farmland' was lost to the flooding of this area. At its widest point, this wetland was about a quarter of a mile wide.

Above. Looking North up Foss Island Road.

Nearly 600 hundred years later, the Kings Fishpool was still regarded as a significant barrier to anyone wanting to gain entry to the city of York. When the city was besieged by Parliamentarian forces in 1644 plans were drawn up for building a bridge over this area, to gain access to the city and bypass the walls and gates.

Above. The tower with wall stretching away to the South.

The Red Tower is a very different structure to that shown on sketches dated 1776. In these drawings, it is shown without a roof and the whole of its Western wall collapsed. It first appears in documents as 'The Rede tower in the water of the Foss', sometime around 1511. This document details the supply of artillery to the tower and the nearby walls, and also states that the base of the tower was lapped by the rivers waters.

Above. A view of the tower showing the garde-robe on the North wall.

The Red Tower is unusual in York, in that it is constructed of red brick. It is likely that this material was much cheaper than the lighter coloured stone used elsewhere in the city's towers and walls.

Above. A view of the tower looking North from the walls.

The fact that the tower was supplied with artillery in 1511 possibly indicates that it was already standing at this point in time. It may have been built sometime around 1490....a tower built of brick and by the brick layers instead of the masons is certainly mentioned at this time, causing friction between the two sets of craftsmen. The masons were traditionally employed to build the walls and towers, and were somewhat irked that the more lowly brick layers were favoured for this project.

The Red Tower is a small rectangular building, looking more like a small house than a defensive tower. It once stood to around thirty feet, but now stands to around twenty from floor to eves (the pitched roof is not original) The ground level has been raised here, burying about ten feet of wall. The tower was heavily repaired between 1541 and 1545, and plans of the building dated 1616, still show it with a flat roof.

Above. A view of the tower from outside the walls, looking North.

A photograph dated 1853, shows that further repairs had been carried out, with more repairs done in 1857. This final period of repair and rebuilding, essentially left us with the tower we see today. The ditch, dug out in 1645, is no longer visible, having been filled in.

Victoria Bar, York

Victoria Bar
York
Yorkshire

This relatively modern gateway bridges Victor Street as the leaves the city on its Southern side. Opened in 1838, it was purely a functional gateway, enabling traffic to exit the city from the Nunnery Lane area.

Above. A view of the bar from outside the walls.

The gate consists of a central archway with two flanking pedestrian arches. The two additional arches were created in 1864 and 1867.

Above. A view of the bar from inside the walls.

As this gate was being built, an earlier but blocked gate was discovered, possibly representing a medieval gateway called Lounelith in historical records dating from the 12th century. This gate had been bricked up with huge stones, wooden piles and mounds of earth. There seems to be no historical information relating as to why this gateway would have been blocked, but one suggestion is that it was closed to secure York's defences in 1569, during the Northern rebellion.

The Davy Tower and Castlegate Walls, York

The Davy Tower and Castlegate Walls
Castlegate
York
Yorkshire

Situated at the end of a short 100 metre stretch of wall that would have once connected the Davy Tower to the Castlegate Postern (now gone!) this tower probably doesn't feature on anyone's visit to York these days.

This stretch of wall, judging by some contemporary drawings of this specific area, does not appear to have ever been very substantial....although today it is even lower. This is partly due to the fact that the surrounding ground has been raised for added flood defences. The lower levels of the Davy Tower, and the wall leading off it, are buried beneath the earth for this reason.

There is a a very narrow wall walk on the inside of the wall, which may have been emboldened with a timber platform. Some of the wall's embrasures have been bricked up and the outer ditch, dug out in 1454, has long since been filled in.

The Davy Tower sits at the South Western end of this short stretch of wall, and probably dates from the early 1300's. It is mentioned in documents dated 1315 and again in 1380, as the Davytoure. It was also historically known as the Tower of the Friars Minor, due to its proximity to the Franciscan Friary.

Originally a rectangular building, it appears to have lost its North West angle. Hiding behind some bushes to the side, one of the tower's walls still contains an arrow slit and a small gun loop.

Above. A view of the tower from across the river.

Between 1731 and 1750, a brick summer house was incorporated into the South angle of the tower. The whole structure has now been converted to a house, and only the pale stone work now visible to a height of about ten feet, represents the remains of the medieval stone work.

Like Barker Tower and Lendal Tower, the Davy Tower would have been used to secure a chain across the River Ouse, with the other side of the chain being secured to the now demolished Skeldergate Postern tower.

Walmgate Bar, York

Walmgate Bar
Walmgate
York
Yorkshire

This beautiful, almost complete gateway into the city of York, sits at the junction of Lawrence Street and Foss Islands Road. The earliest historical mention of the gateway is from documentation dating from the 12th century, and indeed, the earliest pieces of masonry here at Walmgate, date from the this period too. The Bar as we see it today, dates mostly from the 14th century, with only the inner arch of the main gateway dating from the earlier (12th century) period.

Above. A view of the beautifully restored interior of Walmgate Bar.

The Bar is two storeys tall and has two corbel led bartizans on its external face. It also retains its portcullis and the huge 15th century oak doors.

Above. A view of the exterior of the Bar, showing the barbican.

The interior timber extension is supported on two stone columns, and dates from a 1584\86 period of repair.

Above. A full length view of the barbican.

Walmgate Bar has suffered much over the years, and has subsequently undergone years of repair and rebuilding. In 1489 the Bar was damaged by fire, as was Fishergate Bar. Walmgate was defensively strengthened in 1511, with the addition of artillery.

Above. Looking down the barbican into the city.

The Bar was assaulted during the siege of York in 1644, when canon fire was directed on it from Lamel Hill, and from the church yard of St Lawrence. The Bar was also mined at this time, by the attacking Parliamentarian forces. After the siege, Walmgate was temporarily patched up and a huge earthen rampart was thrown up across Walmgate street. Permanent repairs weren’t conducted until 1648. The attempted mine was filled in in 1645, but it apparently left a ‘dip’ in the North wall of the barbican. The City Corporation couldn’t afford the repairs in 1646, but were given a Parliamentarian grant of £5000 to repair it completely.

Above. The 15th century oak gates.

In the late 18th century, houses had been built right up to the barbican’s walls, and the battlements and the bartizans and part of the North wall of the barbican were in a poor state of repair. Expense seems to have been a problem again, where repairs were concerned, and it was recommended that the barbican be removed completely (as had happened at the other bars) Luckily for us, the barbican was finally repaired in 1840, with all the housing built up against its walls completely removed.

Walmgate is now the only town gate in the whole of England, that retains its barbican.

Bootham Bar Postern and Tower, York

Bootham Bar Postern and Tower
Gillygate
York

This postern tower and gateway can be found at the junction of Gillygate, Bootham and High Petergate. It lays a few feet to the North West of Bootham Bar, and consists of a three storey tower, a portion of wall some three feet thick, and a gateway or postern.

Above. A view of the tower from Gillygate to the North East.

The tower has a gabled roof now, but it appears that the windows on the South East and North West would once have been crenelations on a flat topped tower.

Above. A view of the tower showing the thickness of the wall from the South East.

The tower and its attendant postern marked the point at which the City walls met the precinct walls of the Abbey of St Mary. I'm not sure if their upkeep would have fallen to the Abbey or the city of York.

Above. A view of the tower from the South, showing the postern.

The tower and its postern are best viewed from the crossing at Gillygate, and also from the plaza in front of York Art Gallery.

Archbishop's Palace, York

Archbishop's Palace
York
Yorkshire

Situated a few yards to the North of the mighty York Minster, the Bishop’s palace, a beautiful almost secret building, sits screened by trees.

Above. The 12th century arcade, now used as a War Memorial.

There are two major parts to this site….the first, is a late 12^th century arcade, known as Archbishop Roger’s Arcade, repaired and consolidated in 1987 and now turned into a war memorial.

Above. A view of the Chapel from the walls at Moatside Court.

This is a beautiful piece of architecture, consisting of seven arches two of which are supported by pillars. It was built for Archbishop Roger de Pont l'Eveque.

The second part to this site, is a building known today as the Chapel. This simple rectangular building dates from the 13^th century, possibly built around 1230, and sits to the North East of the ruined arcade. It is now used as the Minster Library.

The arcade and the chapel can both be viewed from the parks surrounding the Minster.

Anglian Tower (tower 19) York

The Anglian Tower (Tower 19)
York
Yorkshire

There is a short portion of Roman wall, topped with Medieval masonry, that sits between the South Eastern extremities of the ruined St Mary’s Abbey, and the Museum gardens. Here, tucked between the base of the wall and the Museum the Anglian tower hides. It is a small square tower, with two narrow doorways, and until about 1839, was buried beneath the ramparts of the inner part of the old Roman walls. It was ‘rediscovered’ when the ramparts were dug away, but only excavated in 1969.

Above. A view along the base of the old Roman wall.

It appears that the tower was built to block a breach in the old Roman walls, and to this day, dating it seems to be a difficult question to answer.

Above. The front of the tower.

It appears that the tower was built to block a breach in the old Roman walls, and to this day, dating it seems to be a difficult question to answer. It is built of poorer quality stone than the surrounding Roman walls, perhaps suggesting that it is older than the surviving Roman remains. Some historians think it could be late Roman in date, but even to this day, it’s age has not been satisfactorily ascertained.

Above. A view of the outside face of the tower.

It lays only a few yards from the interior of the Roman Multangular tower, and forms an interesting section of the early defences of the city of York.

Sizergh Castle, May 2010

Sizergh Castle
Sizergh
Near Kendal
Cumbria

Taking advantage of a bright but overcast day, a trip to Sizergh was on the cards. It wasn't very busy so I was able to grab some pretty good photos, especially from the gardens as they'd been closed on previous visits. So this time, the castle has been photographed within its gardens and landscaping context.

Above. The castle from the South East across the pond.

Above. A view of the castle from the North East.

Above. View of the castle from the banks of the pond.

Above. A view of the castle from the gateway to the courtyard.

Note the scallop shells on top of each of the gate-posts. Thank you to my eagle-eyed wife who spotted them. These relate to the scallops shown on the Strickland coat of arms, very much in evidence all around the gardens and the castle. For instance, on my recent visit, the family flag was flying on the top of the tower.

Above. Another view of the castle from the gardens below.

Above. A view of the castle from a gazebo hidden in the orchard.

Above. The Stricklands of Sizergh arms in the Strickland chapel at Kendal.

The window shown above, is situated in the East wall of the Strickland chapel in the parish church in Kendal. It shows the three silver scallops, representing pilgrimage, on a black background with a patterned edge all around the shield. These arms are specifically belong to the Stricklands of Sizergh Castle. The Dacre family have a similar coat of arms, with three silver scallops on a black background, but importantly, without the patterned edge.

Above. Again...the Stricklands of Sizergh's arms over the entrance to the Strickland chapel at Kendal.

The shield and arms shown above, are again specifically of the Stricklands of Sizergh Castle. They can be found above the doorway in the wooden panelling of the screen that marks the Strickland Chapel in Kendal parish church. There are various forms of these arms throughout Sizergh Castle, relating to the many marriages into the family by other families....each time small additions and changes were made to the coat of arms. Check the link for loads of information on the Strickland family history.

Check out the link for details on the opening times for Sizergh Castle.

And if you fancy a bite to eat, or a look around the farm shop, check the link for Low Sizergh Barn nearby.

Coniston Hall, Near Coniston

Coniston Hall
Near Coniston
Cumbria

A building on or near this site was original the seat of the Urswick family until around 1250, and then, with the building of the hall and possibly a fortified tower of some sort in the early 15th century, it became the seat of the Fleming family. The hall sits at the Northern tip and on the West banks of Coniston Water, and is visible from Brantwood across the water on the East bank. The hall consists of a West wing which contains a living room, sitting room and a central kitchen. The central block consists of the original kitchen area, a dairy under the hall, and an old byre\barn area. The East wing contains a newel stair in the outside wall, which may suggest that there could have been a tower here.

Above. A view of the hall from the East banks of Coniston. Photo by kind permission of Tony Richards (see the link below)

It is this wing, hidden behind the trees to the left of the photo, that could have been the location of the tower.....the walls here are thick, but the basic layout of this wing is broken, and has been altered over the years, with a partial restore taking place in around 1815. Several documents mention the remains of buildings to the South West and West of the hall....but it is thought that, rather than being the remains of out buildings, or even the original Urswick family tower, they are probably the earthwork remains of fish ponds. The Fleming family eventually left Coniston Hall for larger, more modern accommodation at Rydal....but the hall was maintained by the family as a hunting lodge up until the early 1700's. I'm not sure what the access rights to the hall and the grounds are, so when I find this out, I'll update this post.

Check Tony's Lakeland Cam website for daily photo updates. If you're stuck behind a desk on a bright sunny day, this is the place to cheer yourself up with. Thank you for letting me use your photo Tony!

There is some really good information at this link regarding Coniston, the Hall, the Flemings and the surrounding areas.

Check this link out for a detailed plan of the hall.

Leighton Hall, Yealand Conyers

Leighton Hall
Yealand Conyers
Lancashire

Situated about three miles North of Carnforth in Lancashire, stunning Leighton Hall has been watching over the surrounding countryside for over seven hundred years. There is mention of a fortified house built here in 1246 by Adam d'Avranches. Adam's grandson changed his name to Adam Yealand, the surname of his cousin, Sir Henry de Redmayne, who in turn was the son of Norman de Yealand of Redmayne, thereby providing the name of the two small villages that lay less than a quarter of a mile apart....Yealand Conyers, and Yealand Redmayne. The lands were granted to the d'Avranches family by the Barons of Kendal.

Above. A view of the hall from the South East.

The hall we see today, is the result of a massive rebuild in 1763, prompted by the near total destruction at the hands of Government troops after the 1715 Jacobite rebellion. Albert Hodgson, owner of the hall and its estates after 1708, was staunchly Catholic, and as such, backed the Jacobite's attempt at overthrowing the Hanoverian monarchy and government. Unfortunately for Albert, he was captured by government troops at Preston in 1715. The hall was then confiscated from the family and hall was sacked and burned.

Above. The South face of Leighton Hall.

In 1722, the hall was sold at public auction and purchased by a family friend. It was presented back to Albert Hodgson. When he was finally released from jail, he moved back to Leighton Hall. It wasn't until the 1760's however, that the hall was re-built. Albert's daughter, Mary, married a wealthy businessman, George Townley of Townley Hall near Burnley. With his finances, and Mary's vision, the hall was rebuilt and magnificent gardens laid out. Mary and George had no children, so when they both died, the hall and its vast gardens were sold in 1805, to Alexander Worswick of Ellel Grange. Alexander worked as a banker in Lancaster, and was married to Alice Gillow.

Above. The mock chapel...actually built as stables.

This was to be the start of the Gillow family's association with Leighton Hall. The hall was sold in 1822 to Richard Gillow, who was the grandson of Robert Gillow founder of the Gillow furniture company. Richard was responsible for Leighton Hall's Gothic facade that we see today. This 'new look' for the house was erected between 1822 and 1825.

Above. The Paley and Austin tower, added in 1870.

The hall was inherited by Richard's son, Richard Thomas Gillow in 1849. Richard Thomas died in 1906, and was responsible for the building of the catholic church of St Mary at Yealand. Before this, the chapel at Leighton Hall would have been used for mass and other Catholic services. Richard Thomas was also responsible for the addition of the Victorian wing of the hall, the huge tower designed by Paley and Austin (shown above)

Above. The Gothic porch, possibly built by Thomas Harrison.

Richard Thomas reached a stage in his later life, where he was reluctant to carry out any repairs on the hall, and it slowly started to slide into disrepair. When he finally died, his son Charles Richard Gillow appears to have inherited a fairly run down building.

Above. Another view of the Paley and Austin West tower.

Charles took on the running of the hall but died in 1923. When his widow died in 1966, it then passed on to Helen Gillow, soon to become Helen Gillow-Reynolds. The hall is still in the Gillow family, although the family name is now Gillow-Reynolds.

Check the official Leighton Hall web site for further information.

Eller barrow, Pennington

Eller barrow
Pennington
Cumrbria

This possible barrow mound is to be found about a quarter of a mile to the East of the church of St Michael at Pennington. Visible both from the roadside about a hundred yards to the South West, and from the railway bridge to the South, it stands out on the flat flood plain that extends West and East of Barn Beck.

Above. A view of the barrow from the railway bridge to the South.

It is described as a tumulus, with a base measuring some four hundred feet in circumference, with a maximum height of around fifty feet. Some sources state that it is probably a 'spoil heap' from either the building of the nearby railway, or an earlier field clearance.

Above. A view of the barrow from the roadside to the South West.

The barrow, or mound, depending on who you believe, is easily accessible from the road side, although there is little or no parking here. The best place to view it, and to ponder its antiquity, is from the railway bridge, which affords unbroken views across the flood plain.

Glen of the Bar, New Galloway Forest

Glen of the Bar
New Galloway Forest
Near Newton Stewart
Dumfries and Galloway
Scotland

Situated some seven or so miles North East of Newton Stewart on the A712, the Glen of the Bar is a magnificent tree clad gully, that runs for about three quarters of a mile North East to South West. It follows the line of a beck that eventually runs into Palnure Burn. Numerous finds of animal bones have been found at the end of the gully, prompting historians to suggest that early peoples of the area herded wild animals into the steep sided ravine, and then hurled stones and spears at them to kill them.

As with many spots along the A712, there is parking at this spot, and a specially created walkway that takes you out over the North Western tip of the gully, affording excellent views across its tree lined sides and base. This is yet another worth while stop off point on this road.

Hole of Horucm, Near Lockton

Hole of Horcum
Near Lockton
North Yorkshire Moors
North Yorkshire

Situated on the West side of the A169, South of Sleights and North of Lockton, the Hole of Horcum is a natural amphitheater, some three quarters of a mile across, and over four hundred feet deep. There is a fantastic vantage point with specially created viewing points where the A169 runs around the North Easter tip of the hole. From here, it is possible to see, as shown below, to the far Northern, Western and Southern sides of the hole, along with all the pathways and features that this area is famous for.

Above. Looking South West across the Hole of Horcum.

The floor of this immense feature, is littered with the earthwork remains of medieval and earlier enclosures, medieval dykes, ruined buildings, the remains of settlements, field systems and cairns.

Above. A view of the bottom of the Hole of Horcum, showing the footpath running alongside Levisham Beck.

Follow this link for photos of a walk through the Hole of Horcum towards Skelton Tower.
And more excellent photos here.

Castlehowe Scar Stone Circle, Shap

Castlehowe Scar stone circle (sometimes referred to as Harkeld)
Near Shap
Cumbria

This tiny stone circle lies about a mile East of Shap (off the A6) along the B road from Shap to Crosby Ravensworth. The circle sits in front of, and to the West of a small scar called Castlehowe Scar, which is now covered with trees.

Above. A close up view of the major stones of the circle.

Although this is, relatively speaking, a tiny circle (it is perhaps only about ten feet across) it is really part of a larger collection of circles and megaliths in this area. Other sites include Kemp Howe to the West and Gamelands to the South, as well as numerous single standing stones and burial mounds.

Above. Some of the many 'erratics' scattered throughout the field.

The circle consists of a collection of ten stones, including an 'outlier' to the North East (not shown here) One of the stone still stands to over a metre in height, whilst the rest have fallen. All the stones are of Shap Granite, which seems to be the predominant type of rock in this location. There are plenty of other stones laying on the surface of this field, some arranged tantalisingly in smaller circles.

Above. Looking East, over the circle and towards Castlehowe Scar.

This circle is dated by Pastscape, to the Bronze Age.

Above. A view of the circle looking South.

Although the circle lies on a private field, it can be viewed from the roads to the North and the East, and from common land which lies to the South....there's also plenty of parking nearby.