Stalker Castle, Appin

Stalker Castle

Appin

Scotland

Castle Stalker, or Stalcaire in Gaelic, lays at the Southern entrance to the Sound of Shuna, and in the Western end of Loch Laich. It is built on a rocky outcrop called the Rock of the Cormorants. The site is thought to have been occupied by a smaller defensive building from the 1320’s, when the MacDougalls were Lords of Lorn. The MacDougalls lost the title of Lords of Lorn when they were defeated by King Bruce at Brander Pass in 1308. The title was regained briefly by the family, but lost again in 1388, with the title passing to the Stewarts. It’s thought that the building we see today, was built by Sir John Stewart in around 1446.

The castle was reputedly a frequent haunt of King James IV of Scotland, who used the castle as a base for hunting trips to the Highlands. The addition of the top floor and the roof were probably due to the Royal visits, and a coat of arms that survives over the front door of the tower is probably the Royal arms.

The castle really is a simple structure, consisting of a four storey keep, accessible through a doorway on the first floor at the top of a flight of stone steps. Its main defensible qualities come courtesy of the fact that it is difficult to reach, accessible only usually by boat, and on foot at low tide.

An interesting note: the castle may be familiar to Monty Python fans, as Castle Aaaaaaaargh, the likely resting place of the Holy Grail. King Arthur and Sir Bedevere attempt to storm the castle but are beaten back by the French who have occupied the castle and drive them away by throwing farm animals at them.

Photos courtesy of John Jefferies

Gylen Castle, Island of Kerrera

Gylen Castle

Island of Kerrera

Scotland

Gylan Castle has seen better days. The ruins are now roofless, and a certain amount of consolidation work has recently been undertaken to ensure the castle’s survival. The ruins lay on the South West of the Island of Kerrera, at the foot of Cnoc Biorach, guarding the bays of Port a’ Chaisteil and Port a’ Chroinn. The tower was probably completed sometime around 1582, and was a base for the MacDougall clan. The tower was probably situated on the South West of Kerrera to provide cover for the Southern approaches to Oban through the Sound of Kerrera.

The surviving remains consist of the main block of the tower, which is built in an L shape, and stands to four storeys. The stair tower can still be seen jutting out of the West angle of the tower. The walls of the tower still have a variety of small windows, shot holes and gun loops. The entrance defences still survive, and consist of two 1 metre thick, parallel walls that contain loop holes and still stand to around 2 metres in height. These walls lead into a vaulted passageway and then into a small courtyard which in turn is protected by the cliff faces below it.

In 1647, General Leslie laid siege to the castle, and when he gained entry, had the tower burned. It’s likely that it was never inhabited after this. The extent of the damage caused by General Leslie’s sacking of the tower were evident when it was excavated in 1988. There were soot and ash marks up all the internal walls, layers of burnt timbers and straw on the floor of the tower and the slate roof, now lying on the floor, was reddened from the heat of the blaze.

Following the recent consolidation, the tower has been rescued from its slow demise, and visitors setting foot on Kerrera can now even enter the tower to view it.

Photo courtesy of John Jefferies.

Kisimul Castle, Isle of Barra

Kisimul Castle\Chisimul Castle

Isle of Barra

Scotland

On a small rocky outcrop, Kisimul Castle, a stronghold Of the Clan MacNeils since the 11th century, guards the bay. The castle consists of a strong square keep at one end of the small island, with a high curtain wall around the courtyard. The castle was built with comfortable defence in mind, with its two artesian wells and a fish trap in a basement. The castle was equipped to fend of any attack using a small ship that was permanently berthed alongside the castle walls. At the first sign of trouble, the ship was to be launched by its crew and sent to see off the attackers.

The castle’s walls range from 4 to 7 feet in thickness, and are about 50 feet high. There is evidence to suggest that the walls were raised to their current height some time in the past. The keep, situated at the South East of the island, is four storeys high, with walls of 6 feet in thickness.

In 1838, the 21st cheiftan of the Clan MacNiel was forced to sell Barra, including the castle, and it wasn’t long before the structure was in ruins, with some stone from the castle allegedly turning up in Glasgow as paving stones. In the late 1930’s, Robert Lister MacNeil, the clan chief at the time, purchased the castle. By the time he died in 1970, the castle had been restored to its previous condition. Robert’s son, Ian Roderick took over ownership of the castle, and in March of 2000, it passed into the care of Historic Scotland for a 1000 year lease, with a ground rent of £1 and a bottle of whisky per annum.

Photos courtesy of John Jefferies.

The Duke of Gloucester, Penrith

The Duke of Gloucester
Penrith
Cumbria

Directly across the road from the Two Lions Inn, the Duke of Gloucester enjoys continued success and use as an inn. Dating from around 1470, the building contains a core which is made from an early pele tower. Much of the building dates from the late 16th century, and the additional building work from this period has all but removed all the hallmarks and signs of the original pele tower.

Historical records tell us that the property was converted to house the Duke of Gloucester (later to become King Richard III) whilst building work was undertaken at Penrith Castle....hence the defensive qualities of the core pele tower withing the current building.

Also known in the past as Great Dockray, the main front door to the current inn sports the original coats of arms of the Duke, dating from around 1580. The coats of arms of the de Whelpdale family also survive on the adjacent doorhood.

The interior of the building contains much 16th century plaster and panelling work.

Two Lions Inn, Penrith

Two Lions Inn
Penrith
Cumbria

At the junctions of Rowcliffe Lane and Angel Lane, the Two Lions inn now sits empty and boarded up. Probably built in the latter part of the 16th century, the property represents a fortified house of the type fairly common in many parts of the county.

Looking from the road into the courtyard, the Two Lions consists of a roughtcast two storey building, with a moulded doorway leading to the rear of the property. There are the remains of stone mullioned windows in the rear wall facing the carpark, and a studded door can still be seen at the head of the alley. Stables stand to the left of the courtyard, probably dating from the 1700's. The porch is modern, as is the larger of the three windows fronting the property. The two smaller windows may be original, although all detail seems to have been lost over time.

The main door of the inn shows signs that it had a draw bar, fortifying the entrance. Although the interior was not seen, records state that there is a fine plaster ceiling with the Lowther family arms. Indeed, by all accounts, the building seems to have been the family home of one Gerard Lowther. Lowther was Sheriff of Cumberland in 1592, and also later the Lord Warden of the West Marches......and probably erected the building in 1585. Gerrard was involved with his brother, Sir Richard Lowther, in attempting to release Mary Queen of Scots from her captivity in England, probably from Carlisle Castle, and probably around 1568 to 1570. Gerard Lowther was one of the forebears of the Lowthers who were the Earls of Lonsdale.

Across the road the Duke of Gloucester Inn still stands, a much changed pele tower reputedly once the quarters of the Duke of Gloucester, who later became King Richard III.

Tunstall, St John the Baptist

St John the Baptist

Tunstall

Lancashire

This mostly 15th century church lays down Church Lane in the Lancashire village of Tunstall, about 4 miles South of Kirkby Lonsdale and just North of Thurland Castle on the A683.

The church is reputed to have been built in around 1415, but most of the building appears to be dated a little later than this, perhaps anything up to a hundred years later. Remains of a 13th century structure have been noted, built into the fabric of the present church, including a 6foot long sepulchral slab, found when building work was being done on the interior of the church. A major refurbishment in 1847, seems to have further erased any older parts of the church.

Internally, some 13th century features can still be seen, although these are very sparse. There are traces of 13th century carvings on one of the pillar’s capitals, and another of the pillars retains further feint traces of 13th century carving.

The church has a peel of 3 bells, dating from 1710, 1729 and 1731.

St Wilfrid, Melling

St Wilfrid

Melling

Lancashire

Across the River Lune, and on the side of the A683, the tiny village of Melling has both a beautiful medieval church, and the remains of a Norman motte and bailey castle. This is yet another church in this small area that resides in the grounds of the castle's remains. Probably built on the site of the bailey, traces of which were probably swallowed up by the graveyard, the motte survives in the garden of the vicarage next door.

Remains of a Saxon cross, found in the grounds of the church, probably suggest that this has been the site of a church or chapel since the 10th century. A fine Norman arch is to be found in the northern entrance to the church, further strengthening the church's claim to great age. In 1858, during some rebuilding work, some more Norman stonework was found in the wall next to a window. The stonework consisted of typical Norman zig-zag moulding, probably representing the remains of a doorway. The oldest identifiable part of the church is the West window of the South aisle, dating from the 13th century. This window may have been moved from its original position however, and probably doesn't represent the original 12th\13th century layout of the church.

The church was allegedly seriously damaged after Robert the Bruce raided the Lune valley in 1322, and there is evidence to suggest that elements of the arcades within the church bear the scars of both the raid and the subsequent rebuilding that took place. The church tower dates from the 15th century and has a peal of six bells, all of which were recast from the original 15th century bells in 1754. Indeed, the church as a whole seems to have been much rebuilt during the 15th century, and the layout internally and externally seems to represent this period. In 1763, the church was re-roofed and a brand new clerestory added to both the Nave and the Chancel. A new plaster ceiling was also added at this time, but was removed in 1856 when further rennovation took place.

The church yard to the East of the church, slopes gently to the foot of the badly damaged motte in the vicarage gardens. The motte stands to around 15 feet high, but has been badly damaged by both the mature trees growing from it, and the landscaping that has gone on over the years.

St John the Baptist, Arkholme

St John the Baptist
Arkholme
Lancashire

On the B6254, and about three miles South of Whittington, the small village of Arkholme is home to yet another church built over the site of a small Norman motte and bailey castle. There has been a church on the site from at the very least, the 1450's, when the village was known as Erwhum. The present church probably contains elements of this earlier church, although the building we see today is a result of restoration that took place in 1766 and 1788.

The windows throughout date from the 19th century, and probably replace earlier windows from the 1766 and 1788 restorations....which in turn, probably replaced earlier windows. One of the south aisle capitals, has 15th century stone carvings, but these appear to have been roughly chisslled so that any design or pattern on them is now rendered virtually invisible.One of the better carvings shows a hare being chased by a dog.

The church building probably occupies the site of the castle's bailey, although here, as at Whittington, all traces of ditches and ramparts have long since vanished. The motte however, is a spectacular remain, standing to around 25 feet tall. The remains of a ditch may follow the course of the footpath that runs to the south of the church.

Whittington, St Michael the Archangel

St Michael the Archangel
Whittington
Lancashire

About three miles South of Kirkby Lonsdale, and just off the B6254, sit the church of St Michael the Archangel. The church is built over the remains of a Norman motte and bailey castle, with the graveyard to the East of the church laying directly over the remains of the motte. The mound still stands to a height of around 15 metres, with the building probably in the grounds of the bailey. All evidence of ditches and ramparts have long since vanished. It's believed that there has been a church on this site since around 1200. The oldest surviving part of the present church is the tower, dating from the 15th century. There are undoubtedly parts of the earlier church incorporated into the fabric of the church we see today.

Major restoration work took place in 1875, and this had a lasting effect on the gothic look that this church posseses. The walls were redressed, and new windows were inserted. A new roof was also added at this time. It is this thorough rebuild of the Eastern part of the church that gives it an overall 'odd' look, ie; a later gothic church built up against a medieval tower. The only surviving remains of the earlier, possibly 12th century church that originally stood on this site, appear to be feint chevron and cable mouldings built into the wall within the porch of 1875, and also in the tower wall. There also remains a single moulded base of a 13th century pillar, feint reminders of the original church here.

The church has a peal of six bells, dating from 1683 to 1875, although the oldest bell was recast in 1875.

High up on the West face of the tower, a niche if filled with a Victorian statue of St Michael.

Skipton Castle, Skipton

Skipton Castle

Skipton

North Yorkshire

Skipton Castle sits to the North of the A6131 as it runs through the North Yorkshire market town of Skipton. An imposing medieval structure, the castle sits above Eller Beck to its North, with a deep ravine providing protection here. To the South, West and East, remains of a moat have been found, although these have since been built over.

It’s thought that the castle first began to take shape in around 1090 under Robert de Romille, a Baron of William the Conqueror. The original building would most likely have been a simple earth and timber motte and bailey castle. The castle was however, soon rebuilt in stone by William le Fortibus, and it is upon these foundations that the present day castle is founded. Only one 12th century piece of masonry remains, a simple arch, hidden away in the building.

By 1310, the castle had come under the tenure of the Cliffords, a staunchly Royalist family who backed the house of Lancaster during the Wars of the Roses. Under the Cliffords, the castle underwent many changes; with the addition of massive stone drum towers in the bailey area, and the building of a curtain wall to encase further buildings within the castle’s protective walls. Robert Clifford was responsible for much of the building work done during this period, but he was killed at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. Roger Clifford, his son, too over the castle, and continued with the re-enforcement of the defences.

Robert’s and Roger’s defensive improvements can still be seen today. After walking through the gateway, which was a later addition, the first of the two huge drum towers can be seen straight ahead.

To the left of this tower one half of the original 12th century gatehouse can be seen, half of the tower protruding from the wall. Its opposing tower is hidden behind the later 17th century entrance built by Lady Anne Clifford. The two towers are shown here.

The rest of the drum towers, including the right hand one in the first photo, are all dated to the 13th century. Inside the castle, the main drum tower, the first one to be seen, shows the scars of Cromwell’s ‘slighting’. The tower was demolished down to the first floor, and upon Lady Anne Clifford’s rebuilding between 1657 and 1658, the walls are half as thick so as to adhere to Cromwell’s instructions not to make the castle a defensible structure.

The castle gatehouse was built around 1485, when the castle was returned to the Cliffords after the Wars of the Roses. The gatehouse consists of four large round towers, with apartments built in between them. Topping the embattled parapets of the towers the Clifford motto can be seen….”Desormais”, Henceforth.

The large windows in the gatehouse demonstrate the fact that this was not built, or rebuilt, as a defensible structure. The wooden doors do however bear the marks of the Civil war siege. High up on both doors, small now filled wooden holes can be seen, possibly indicating niches that were used to fire muskets at the attackers.

The castle is built around a small courtyard, called the Conduit court, and consists of a Hall, kitchens, apartments store rooms, as well as passageways to the drum towers, dungeon and document store rooms.

All are in excellent condition thanks to Lady Anne Clifford, who was allowed to restore the castle between 1657 and 1658, after the Civil War. Cromwell’s instructions were that the castle could be rebuilt on the condition that the walls that were rebuilt were not strong enough to resist cannon shot, and that any roofs that were replaced, were not strong enough to support cannons. He was determined that the castle should not be used as a military stronghold again. The siege that his army put the castle under, lasted nearly three years (1643 to 1645), and during this time the castle was nearly completely destroyed, leaving little work for his men when they came to slight the remains.

About two miles to the North West of the castle, high up on the hills overlooking the town, a civil war battery can still be seen. This area, just over the brow of the hill, gave Cromwell’s parliamentarian troops the ideal position from which to fire directly into the castle. The castle’s occupants would not have been able to see the battery, as it is built just out of sight, however, the cannons sited here would have been able to fire repeatedly at the castle pretty much unopposed. The battery consists of a raised area of land, perhaps 40feet by 40 feet, and about 2feet high at its tallest point. There were another two battery sites in the town, used to bring cannon fire down on the castle. One was sited directly to the South of the castle and now has a housing estate built on it, and the third one has been lost, with no records stating where it was.

The walk around the castle gives the visitor unblocked views of the castle from all angles. Leaving the castle gatehouse and turning left up the A6131 affords great views of the thin curtain wall, rebuilt by Lady Anne Clifford, and the one remaining bastion tower. However, the best views can be had, when taking the river side walk to the North of the castle. Eller Beck, as mentioned above, provided a natural barrier against attack, and it is this walk that gives some awesome views of the rear end of the castle. High up above, Elizabethan and 13th century buildings can be clearly seen, demonstrating the difficulty any attacker would have faced.

The castle is open daily from 10am (except Xmas day)

St Mary, Gisburn

St Mary

Gisburn

North Yorkshire

St Mary’s sits at the junction of the A59 and the A682, a low slung church of great age and character.

The foundations of the present church have been dated to around 1135, documents certainly exist in York, stating that the Priest of Gisburn was Renulf between 1140 and 1146. The church seems to have shared patronage between the Archbishopric of York, and the Prioress of Stainfield Nunnery in Lincolnshire. At this time, the church may have had a dual dedication….to St Mary the Virgin, and St Andrew. The dual dedication may have been an attempt at dissuading marauding Scottish armies from desecrating the church and its grounds. Whether this worked or not is not obvious.

It’s possible, as with so many other Norman churches, that there was an earlier Saxon church on the site, but earlier buildings seem to have been constructed of wood, and therefore no remains can be found.
One of the most interesting features of the interior of the church, are the large round pillars at the front of the building. These most certainly date from the 12th century, and possibly, along with part of the massive archway, came from Sawley Abbey after the dissolution instigated by Henry VIII.
Restoration and consolidation has been undertaken on a few occasions. Documents show that the church was restored in the late 16th century and also in 1872. during the latter restoration, the church was re-roofed and new pews and a pulpit were installed.

A fine piscina exists in the South wall of the church.

There are four beautiful Royal coats of arms mounted high in the clerestory portion of the church.
There are 7 stained glass windows in the church in total, none of which look older than the 1600’s, with most of the windows being from around the 1800’s. Two windows do contain some medieval glass however.

The church seems to be open most days, although as usual, always check to see if there's a service on before entering.

Holy Trinity church, Skipton

Holy Trinity Church

Skipton

North Yorkshire

The parish Church in Skipton is situated just outside the castle gates and immediately to the South of the outer curtain wall. The church is built on 12th century foundations, with much of what can be seen today dating from the 14th, 15th, 16th and 19th centuries, the results of rebuilds, extensions and restoration.

A church is first recorded on the site in the 1100’s, and was probably built from wood. This early church probably stood where the tower is now sited. In the 1300’s another church was built by monks from Bolton Priory. This church was added to and extended towards the East of the site from the early 1400’s with evidence that this may have been a gift from Richard III. The Civil War had a profound effect on Skipton, and with the castle subjected to a long siege by Parliamentarian forces, it’s hardly surprising that the church also suffered. Damage done to the building and the stained glass windows was made good by Lady Anne Clifford in the mid 17th century. Damage was also done to the tower in 1853 during a ferocious storm, when it was struck by lightening. The damage was repaired at the same time as the roof of the church was replaced.

The church also went through a phase of upgrades and refurbishment at this time (the 1850’s) including the addition of heating, lighting and new pews.

The church has an abundance of stone carved faces hidden away all around the church, some looking pretty alien? There are also a pair of wooden carved angels on the screen at the East end of the church, that are around 450 years old.

There are also a set of very well preserved medieval sedilia in the South wall of the church. These would have been where monastic members of the congregation would have sat during services.

The church also has a fine set of stained glass windows, dating mainly from the 1650’s during the time that Lady Anne Clifford was rebuilding and repairing the damaged church.

The church is home to some spectacular Clifford monuments and tombs, indicating the special relationship that the family had with the town, the castle and the church.