Sunday, September 02, 2007

Skipton Castle, Skipton

Skipton Castle
Skipton
North Yorkshire

Skipton Castle sits to the North of the A6131 as it runs through the North Yorkshire market town of Skipton. An imposing medieval structure, the castle sits above Eller Beck to its North, with a deep ravine providing protection here. To the South, West and East, remains of a moat have been found, although these have since been built over.

It’s thought that the castle first began to take shape in around 1090 under Robert de Romille, a Baron of William the Conqueror. The original building would most likely have been a simple earth and timber motte and bailey castle. The castle was however, soon rebuilt in stone by William le Fortibus, and it is upon these foundations that the present day castle is founded. Only one 12th century piece of masonry remains, a simple arch, hidden away in the building.

By 1310, the castle had come under the tenure of the Cliffords, a staunchly Royalist family who backed the house of Lancaster during the Wars of the Roses. Under the Cliffords, the castle underwent many changes; with the addition of massive stone drum towers in the bailey area, and the building of a curtain wall to encase further buildings within the castle’s protective walls. Robert Clifford was responsible for much of the building work done during this period, but he was killed at the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314. Roger Clifford, his son, too over the castle, and continued with the re-enforcement of the defences.

Robert’s and Roger’s defensive improvements can still be seen today. After walking through the gateway, which was a later addition, the first of the two huge drum towers can be seen straight ahead.

To the left of this tower one half of the original 12th century gatehouse can be seen, half of the tower protruding from the wall. Its opposing tower is hidden behind the later 17th century entrance built by Lady Anne Clifford. The two towers are shown here.

The rest of the drum towers, including the right hand one in the first photo, are all dated to the 13th century. Inside the castle, the main drum tower, the first one to be seen, shows the scars of Cromwell’s ‘slighting’. The tower was demolished down to the first floor, and upon Lady Anne Clifford’s rebuilding between 1657 and 1658, the walls are half as thick so as to adhere to Cromwell’s instructions not to make the castle a defensible structure.

The castle gatehouse was built around 1485, when the castle was returned to the Cliffords after the Wars of the Roses. The gatehouse consists of four large round towers, with apartments built in between them. Topping the embattled parapets of the towers the Clifford motto can be seen….”Desormais”, Henceforth.

The large windows in the gatehouse demonstrate the fact that this was not built, or rebuilt, as a defensible structure. The wooden doors do however bear the marks of the Civil war siege. High up on both doors, small now filled wooden holes can be seen, possibly indicating niches that were used to fire muskets at the attackers.

The castle is built around a small courtyard, called the Conduit court, and consists of a Hall, kitchens, apartments store rooms, as well as passageways to the drum towers, dungeon and document store rooms.

All are in excellent condition thanks to Lady Anne Clifford, who was allowed to restore the castle between 1657 and 1658, after the Civil War. Cromwell’s instructions were that the castle could be rebuilt on the condition that the walls that were rebuilt were not strong enough to resist cannon shot, and that any roofs that were replaced, were not strong enough to support cannons. He was determined that the castle should not be used as a military stronghold again. The siege that his army put the castle under, lasted nearly three years (1643 to 1645), and during this time the castle was nearly completely destroyed, leaving little work for his men when they came to slight the remains.

About two miles to the North West of the castle, high up on the hills overlooking the town, a civil war battery can still be seen. This area, just over the brow of the hill, gave Cromwell’s parliamentarian troops the ideal position from which to fire directly into the castle. The castle’s occupants would not have been able to see the battery, as it is built just out of sight, however, the cannons sited here would have been able to fire repeatedly at the castle pretty much unopposed. The battery consists of a raised area of land, perhaps 40feet by 40 feet, and about 2feet high at its tallest point. There were another two battery sites in the town, used to bring cannon fire down on the castle. One was sited directly to the South of the castle and now has a housing estate built on it, and the third one has been lost, with no records stating where it was.

The walk around the castle gives the visitor unblocked views of the castle from all angles. Leaving the castle gatehouse and turning left up the A6131 affords great views of the thin curtain wall, rebuilt by Lady Anne Clifford, and the one remaining bastion tower. However, the best views can be had, when taking the river side walk to the North of the castle. Eller Beck, as mentioned above, provided a natural barrier against attack, and it is this walk that gives some awesome views of the rear end of the castle. High up above, Elizabethan and 13th century buildings can be clearly seen, demonstrating the difficulty any attacker would have faced.

The castle is open daily from 10am (except Xmas day)

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Castle Haugh, Gisburn

Castle Haugh
Gisburn
North Yorkshire

The remains of Castle Haugh sit next to the River Ribble (to the West) and the A682 (to the East) The castle looks out over a crossing of the river, and there is likely another motte defending a ford some way South West on the opposite banks of the river.

The castle was most likely established by William de Percy sometime in the 11th century.

The remains consist of a motte standing to around 6m high, eroded to the West where it fronts onto the cliff overlooking the river, and partly damaged. The summit of the motte is dished, either through quarrying or as a result of the removal of a small building\tower. The bailey has been lost to the river below it.

The motte is surrounded by a well preserved ditch which is around 2m deep in some places.

The site is easily accessable via a footpath that passes right next to the foot of the motte. Be aware though, that there is no parking near the site. The A682 at this point is is very narrow and busy.

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Lowick Hall, Lowick

Lowick Hall
Lowick
Cumbria

About two miles West of Spark Bridge on the A5092 lays the tiny village of Lowick. The manor in and around Lowick has existed since the end of the 12th century, and was originally owned by William de Lancaster, 5th baron of Kendal. William granted the lands to Robert de Turribus sometime during the reign of Henry II. The manor then passed from Gilbert de Turribus, son of Robert, to William de Lofwic. In time the manor passed, by marriage, to the Ambrose family, in whose ownership it remained until 1684. It's likely that the pele tower was built during this period, possibly a little earlier. It seems that the last Ambrose, John, died with no male heir, so the manor then passed to John Latus, his nephew. John Latus married a member of the Hudleston family....of Millom Castle, by whom he had a son, Ferdinando Latus. The manor then passed into the Blencowe family by marriage.

The tower portion of the hall, isn't as old as the manor, but probably dates from the 15th or 16th century. The building has undergone many rebuilds and extensions. Looking at the photo, the remains of the pele tower are on the left of the building, with the layout resembling other converted pele towers in the county, namely Godmond Hall, Selside Hall and Preston Patrick Hall to name but a few.

Documents suggest that there were two pele towers at this site, possibly one predating the surviving tower, as all that remains of the second are reputed footings. Unfortunately, as this is a private dwelling I was unable to pay closer inspection. The best views of the hall can be had from the nearby church yard, although even then, trees between the hall and the church yard can block the view.

Ulpha Old Hall, Ulpha

Ulpha Old Hall
Ulpha
Cumbria

The remains of Ulpha Old Hall lay to the North of the Duddon valley, and the to the West of Coniston. This is a beautiful part of West Cumbria.

The remains consist of the east facing wall with the open remains of the main doorway, upstanding walls to the north, south and east (although only to about ground floor height) and several pieces of disconnected wall. The surviving portions of wall are are around 1.2m thick, but the wall with two surviving fire places is about 1.6m thick, no doubt in order to provide additional protection in the weakened part of the building.

It's believed that the tower was built sometime between 1580 and 1620, rather late for a pele tower, perhaps indicating a purely secure building rather than a defensive building. In three portions of the walls, there are small looped windows...small enough to see out of, and perhaps fire a weapon, but too small to gain entry. Documentation on the internet seems to suggest that the ruins were\are due for demolition. Thankfully this hasn't happened and hopefully the remains will survive even longer.

The highest surviving portion of the building can be seen below. The thickness of the walls is clearly visible here.

The photo above shows a portion of the corner of the tower, with a small gun loop visible. The remains sit in a field at the side of the road, affording excellent views.

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Walworth Castle, Darlington

Walworth Castle
Nr Darlington
County Durham

Situated about 7 miles North West of Darlington, Walworth castle dominates the deserted medieval village of Walworth a few hundred yards away to the North. The whole landscape around the castle is testament to the strength of the manor that once held feudal sway over this area.

The castle as we see it today essentially dates from the early 1600’s, although the structure is said to contain masonry from a much older building. Documents from 1466 describe the manor as “one chief messuage with divers outhouses”, so basically a main house with a collection of outhouses nearby. The castle started as a U shaped building, with a rear wing, and the two towers standing guard over the entrance into the courtyard. Whether the open end of the courtyard was protected by a wall or a wooden palisade is unknown, but it’s likely that there was some sort of adjoining structure between the towers.

The manor was built on the ruins of a much earlier castle, possibly dating from the 1150’s, when the Hansard family built the nearby village of Walworth and the original castle. The estate contained lands to the tune of around 1100 acres. The nearby village was probably abandoned in the mid 1300’s, possibly due to the plague. The remains of the village can still be seen as earthworks in nearby fields. Arial photos clearly show the remains of buildings and track ways. As a result of the plague, and the affects that it undoubtedly had on the nearby villages, the estate including the castle fell into disrepair.

In 1367, Ralph Neville, later to become 1st Earl of Westmorland, was granted ownership of the manor of Walworth. Neville held sway over vast areas of the North East, including the areas surrounding Raby Castle and large parts of Richmondshire.

By 1391, the castle and the manor were back in the hands of the Hansard family, when Robert Hansard claimed the estates on behalf of his son, Richard. The fortunes of the castle seem to have improved from here, and the estates stayed in the Hansard family until 1539. It was then, that the Hansard estates were transferred by marriage to the Ayscough family, when Elisabeth Hansard married Sir Francis Ayscough. Their only child, William inherited the estates on the death of his parents, eventually marrying the Earl of Lincoln’s daughter in around 1563. Childless, and therefore with no heir, the couple sold the castle and the estates to Thomas Jennison in 1579. The castle and the associated estates remained in the Jennison family for some time.

In 1603, the castle received a royal visitor, in the form of King James 1st. As the king was travelling to London to his coronation to become the first monarch to reign over both Scotland and England, he was entertained at the castle on the 14th of May. The king was so impressed with the lavish entertainment that was bestowed upon him at the castle, that he knighted Elizabeth’s son in law, George Freville.

When Elizabeth Jennison died, in 1605, the castle and the estates were valued at £954 10 1d.

Between 1634 and 1681, the castle was a hotbed of Catholic rebellion, and fell into ruin as a result of the activities of the family against the Protestant faith and the crown. The castle was sold in 1754, when the Jennison family finances were found to be almost bankrupt due to the amount of money spent on the lavish decoration inside the castle. Matthew Stephenson, a wealthy wine merchant from Newcastle bought the castle for £16000. The castle was then sold once more in 1775, to John Harrison another wealthy merchant from Newcastle. In 1819, John Harrison died, leaving the castle to his only daughter, Ann. She married General Arthur Aylmer in 1825. During his ownership, the castle was renovated and re-decorated, with much of the dilapidation resulting from years of neglect, being repaired and the structure of the castle being made good. The Aylmer family died out in 1931, resulting in the castle being purchased by brothers Neville and Charles Eade. During the 2nd World War, the castle was rented out to the Durham Light Infantry, who used it as a prisoner of war camp for high ranking German and Italian prisoners. In 1950, the castle was purchased by Durham County Council who subsequently turned it into a girl’s school.

The building is today used as a hotel, hosting receptions, weddings and conferences.

There is little information regarding the original structure, except in the context of a collection of possibly fortified buildings providing protection to the nearby village. The village and the castle were on a route used by various invading Scottish armies, so protection was necessary for the population, probably on a regular basis. The oldest part of the current structure is the South West tower, the left hand tower in all the photos here. Some bricked up looped windows can still be seen in this tower, indicating that it was built as a defensive building.

The courtyard, now enclosed in a glass sun room, has spectacular pillared walls with original, possibly medieval windows still in situ.

To the South of the castle, the 18th\19th century haha wall is still intact, preventing cattle from entering the grounds of the castle, whilst preserving the view out across the fields.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Godmond Hall, Burneside

Godmond Hall
Burneside
Nr Kendal

This converted pele tower lays to the North of Burneside (to the East of Kendal) and just of the A591. At first glance, this beautiful building is nothing more than a secluded but large house hiding away at the foot of Potter Fell.

Above. An old painting of Godmond Hall.

On closer inspection however, the building can be seen to fit into that class of buildings common to this area....the pele tower. Looking at the photo, the pele tower is to the right of the main portion of the house, and has been much altered since its defensive days. The tower was built sometime during the mid 15th century, and the main house in the 17th century. The tower is two storeys high over a vaulted basement. The gabled roof replaces what was probably a flat roof with battlements.

The tower was probably built by the Godmond family, and in documents dating from 1777, the walls of the tower are described as being "two yards in thickness or upwards, and firmly cemented." The windows are described as being "small and crossed with bars of iron." The floors are described as being made of "many planks grooved into each other, to prevent assaults from above." The threat of attack was thought to come from 'raiders' unroofing the tower, and descending through the floors above.

Privately owned, the house is very difficult to photograph, most of all because of the well kept gardens. It probably warrants a visit in Winter when hedges and trees are bare.

Castle Dairy, Kendal

Castle Dairy
Wildman Street
Kendal
Cumbria

Kendal’s oldest inhabited building, the Castle Dairy, lies on the North side of Wildman Street, about a hundred yards from Stramongate Bridge. Built in the 14th century as a cross wing house, the building retains many original features and is in particularly good condition. Originally a farm house, no doubt standing in open fields before the buildings of Wildman Street were erected, the house would have had open views towards the River Kent. The building was extensively re-modelled for Anthony Garnett, a successful local business man, in the 1560’s.

The name Dairy, is somewhat a misnomer, as the dairy associated with the castle, would most likely have been built closer to the outer curtain walls. It’s most likely that the name has been mis-spelled in the past, and in fact relates to Dowry….meaning a house where a Dower, or a widow would have lived. The house probably has connections with the steward of Kendal castle (as does the New inn on Highgate)

The house started life as a single storey cross wing house, a simple house with a range at one end. It’s quite likely that the two wings were added in the 1560’s, when Anthony Garnett gained possession of the building. Indeed, his name, initials and associated dates are scattered around the house in a host of intriguing carvings and stained glass windows.

From the outside, the single storey hall has three single arched sandstone windows to the left of the main doorway. The heads to these windows have been replaced fairly recently, including the carved faces. To the left of these windows, there is another simple sash window, next to a smaller door. Some old black and white photos of the house, show a stone built porch over this door. However it’s now been dismantled. Above the main door, a small date stone can be seen, bearing the initials AG and a date of 1564.

The right hand wing houses a huge square chimney, whereas the left hand wing has a traditional Westmorland chimney, round stacks and very tall. The dove cotes under the eaves of this wing appear to be still open to the elements, and sit above two sandstone arched windows. The ground floor windows are more recent simple sash windows. Each side wall of the first floor room has a small window in it, each one barely 10 inches high and 8 inches wide.

The left hand wing has similar windows, although the ground floor windows look much older, the sandstone more weathered and the lintel at a jaunty angle. This wing is an almost identical copy of the right hand wing, except for the round Westmorland chimneys, and the blocked dove cotes. The ground floor side wall has a tiny window in just below chest level. It is probably about 8 inches high, and no more than 4 inches wide, and consists of three tiny leaded panes of glass. Likewise, there is a similar window on the outside of the first floor of this wing. This time the window is about 6 inches high, about 3 inches wide, and again consists of three tiny leaded panes of glass. This window has a slightly arched head, and a solid sandstone surround.

Entrance to the house is gained through a doorway in the South East of the central hall. This single storey room contains a large range that dominates the wall to the left.

All the wood work in the hall is dark wood, probably oak (or so I’ve been told) and it dominates the house throughout making it dark and quite claustrophobic. The floor of the hall is made of huge slabs of what looks like Lakeland slate. To the right of the hall a small staircase provides access to the first floor North East wing. Above it is a small piece of vaulted ceiling. Two of the windows to this part of the house, contain tiny stained glass windows. Each window is no more than 5 inches high, and is a simple diamond shape, with the pattern\design painted in vivid yellow paint. Again, I’m told that these are all original. The first window contains the letters AG (for Anthony Garnett) surrounded by knot work. A grimacing skull is painted at the bottom angle of the window. The second window has a yellow fleur de lis capped with a crown.

To the rear of the hall, a small low passageway takes you through to the South West wing ground floor. The date 1560 can be seen clearly carved into the left hand wooden panel of the doorway. The other side of this piece of wood is carved with a Latin inscription: “PAX HUIE DOMUI” with a date that is too feint to read. It perhaps says 1718.

This small dark passageway leads to the hallway that links the older 14th century hall with the additional wing. There are three fine sand stone arches here, providing access into the one room of this wing. Up until the 1980’s, all but two of these were blocked off. The stone mason marks can still be seen carved into the stone uprights of the door ways. The floor of this passageway is of interest here. It continues into the room occupying the ground floor of this wing also. Legend has it, that this floor, collectively made of thousands of worn pieces of stone no more than a few inches long, is part of the old roman road that may have run along the banks of the River Kent, leading to the ford that was once placed where Stramongate bridge is now. Whether this is true or not….who knows, but this is a startling piece of architecture.

Moving into the main room of this wing, the walls are made of the old dark oak throughout, and serve to partition the room from a small passageway that then leads onto the kitchen from the days the Castle Dairy was a restaurant. The door that separates the kitchen from the rest of the building would originally have been an external door. It is thick dark oak with huge metal hinges, and sits inside yet another sandstone doorway. The floor here is a continuation of the pebbled floor in the small passageway next door.

Returning across the hallway and back through the central block, the area that was used as a bar is perhaps the most disappointing room in the whole house. The floor here has been replaced with a modern tiled floor. The bar area occupies an area that was once partitioned off but has since had the old wood panelling removed. All in all, the room is to all intents and purposes, a modern room.

Climbing the stairs to the first floor of the North East wing, takes you to the most interesting room of the whole hall. A short corridor to your right leads to the bedroom, which contains two interesting pieces of furniture. The first item is the magnificent four poster bed.

Again this is made of the dominant dark oak wood. The main feature is the head board, which is decorated with two male heads, one with horns, the other with what looks like rodent’s ears.

There are three maned lions beneath this, and the centre piece is probably the coat of arms of Anthony Garnett, for it is undoubtedly his bed. The coat of arms is made up of the letters AG surrounded with knot work (as in the stained glass windows) The second item of furniture in this room, is the dark oak ambrey.

The cornice of this fanciful piece of furniture is inscribed with yet more Latin: “OIA VANITAS HONOR DIVICIE POTESTAS” The date 1562 and the initials AG. A lion’s head sits in the midst of the Latin inscription. This room has a beautiful barrel vaulted ceiling, with dark oak supports running its full length.

Where these supports are joined, there are carved wooden bosses with more coats of arms carved on them.

There used to be three of these bosses, but only two now remain. The first contains symbols representing the families of Parr, Fitz-Hugh, Roos and Anthony Garnett. The second contains symbols representing the families of Deincourt and Strickland. One of the oak supports rests upon a finely carved pair of Gryphon heads.

There are also another four stained glass windows in this room. Again, each window is around 5 inches high, and diamond in shape. The first window shows the letters AG in yellow, with a grimacing skull beneath it. The second window shows an eagle plucking a child from a tree top. The third window shows the same scene, albeit with the yellow paint much removed. The last window shows the initials AG surrounded by knot-work. Besides the two main windows in this room, there are two additional tiny ones. Each window is no more than 8 inches high, and set within the thick walls.

Moving back down the first floor corridor, a doorway gives way to what was reputedly the chapel of the house. The wall separating the hall way from this room is dark oak panelled, whilst the other main internal wall is oak with plaster partitions (archetypal Tudor panelling) The windows in this room lend themselves to the idea that it was once a domestic chapel. They are distinctly arched with small leaded panels.

The First floor of the South West wing was unfortunately not explored. This wing is entered from the outside via a small flight of steps, and on the day I visited the keys were not available. A return trip will have to be made.

All in all the building is a stunning piece of medieval architecture, in excellent condition, and standing amongst buildings from many periods. It is probably Kendal’s only surviving ‘true’ medieval house, the many others in the town having much building work and redesign done on their fabric. Although it’s not open to the public, it can be viewed easily from Wildman street.

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Medieval towers, St Tropez

St Tropez
France

A recent trip to St Tropez in the South of France revealed these medieval towers guarding the harbour in this ancient southern town.

There are three towers in total, guarding the harbour: Guillaume Tower (also known as Suffren Tower), Portalet Tower and Jarlier Tower. There are only two of the three pictured here (it was far too hot and far too busy to go looking for the third)

St Tropez also has a large 16th century citadel which now houses the Naval museum, but the three harbour towers are much older than this building.

Similar to the St Tropez towers, is the following...this time in Jersey, and not as old. This tower can be found at Greve de Lecq, on the North coast of the island. It was built sometime around 1778, probably being one of the first towers to be built in the face of a French\Napoleonic invasion.

The photo above (courtesy of Charles Jeffries) clearly shows the machicoulis...gaps in the masonry that the defenders could use to fire missiles at anyone attacking the base of the tower. This tower was part of a building project that incorporated the erection of 22 towers, later leading to a vast building project incorporating the South coast of England...again planning for the protection against a French\Napoleonic invasion. This tower did not stand alone in its defence of the North coast (for which it was the only tower built in this region) To the West of the tower, a redoubt was built on the headland, and on the other side of the bay, two batteries were built. The tower is painted white on the seaward side, making it visible far out at sea. This serves as a navigational marker for ships. The landward side is unpainted.

Preston Patrick Hall, Preston Patrick

Preston Patrick Hall
Preston Patrick
Cumbria

Situated about seven miles to the South of Kendal, Preston Patrick is a dispersed area of small hamlets and farms, and one of the older parishes in the South Lakes area. The area’s history dates back to the 12th century when Thomas de Wyrkington founded an abbey of Premonstratensian canons between today’s Preston Patrick and Holme. The site was eventually abandoned in favour of Shap Abbey. The name “Preston Patrick” is derived from “Priest’s town” or “Priest’s farm”, and from Patrick de Curwen, an earlier owner of the manorial area.

Above. Old photo of the hall.

After the dissolution of the monasteries, during the reign of Henry VIII, Thomas Preston, the then holder of the manor of Preston Patrick, purchased Furness Abbey from the crown, this purchase also including vast tracts of lands. He then quit Preston Patrick Hall in favour of the more comfortable lodgings at the abbey. From this time on, he made sure that the family name was altered slightly, so that in documentation, any Preston was to be known as a Preston of the Manor and the Abbey. No doubt a show of wealth and familial significance. In the 16th century, the hall and the manor passed to John Preston of Preston Richard and Nether Levens Hall, by way of marriage to Ellyn Curwen.

The hall as it is to be seen today was largely built in the late 14th century. It resembles Selside Hall near Kendal, with its twin wings, each of two storeys, and large connecting central hall.


Indeed, both wings, front and back, and an element of the extension to the left of the building are all dated to the late 14th century, with elements of both the ground floor and the first floor of the central hall also dating from this period. The central hall contains elements of some rebuilding work from the late 15th and early 16th centuries, as well some further rebuilding and redesign from the 17th century. The hall block was probably heightened during this latter period of rebuilding, and remains open right the way to the roof timbers.

Above. Floor plan of Preston Patrick Hall.

The basement in the right hand tower is vaulted, whilst the basement in the left tower is joisted. Whether this indicates two periods of building is unclear, but could just mean that the left tower was repaired at a later date using newer building methods.

Above. Machel's sketch of Preston Patrick Hall.

The right hand tower contains a room once used as a manorial courtroom on the first floor. This room is entered through a doorway at the top of a later flight of stairs, which clearly was once a window. The sandstone heads still remain in place. The courtroom was used to pass judgments on local Quaker preachers when the breakaway religion was first finding its feet. When the hall was being altered, a hidden staircase was discovered built into the wall, linking the house to the courtroom.

Some documentary evidence seems to suggest that the site was surrounded by a curtain wall, and that there was also an additional tower.