Monday, September 06, 2010

Holyrood Palace defences, Edinburgh

Holyrood Palace
Edinburgh
Scotland

It's hard to believe that Holyrood palace could have provided its Royal inhabitants with any degree of safety.....let alone defence. But, the palace started life as a Royal bolt-hole....to all intents and purposes, a thinly disguised castle. Most of the defensive qualities have long since been re-modelled or demolished and replaced, but some elements remain, and can still be seen. For the palace's history, and some additional photos, check this link.

Above. A view of the palace from the West.

James IV commenced building his Royal palace here in the late 1400's. Indeed, the tower to the left of the photo above, was mostly complete by around 1505 (probably having been started in 1498). This tower is commonly known as James IV's tower, and is all that remains (apart from one half of the gatehouse) of his attempt at fortifying his palace. The tower consists of a central rectangular block, with three corner turrets. The stone work of the tower is significantly different to that of its neighbour, rougher and of a different colour, indicating the difference in age.

Above. A closer view of the James IV tower.

An engraving dated 1650, shows the James IV tower as the only corner structure at this time. It was no doubt built as a stout and secure residence for the King, away from the more military comforts of Edinburgh Castle. The walls of both the central block, and the three towers are much thicker than the more modern tower to the right of the top photo, and the interior is split by a thick cross wall. The palace as a whole was remodelled by James V and later monarchs.
Above. The South side of the 15th century gatehouse.

The gatehouse, otherwise known as Abbey Pend, was also added to the palace by James IV, at roughly the same time as the tower. Originally this would have been a long building with a narrow passageway leading off Canongate. All that now remains, is the Southern side of the gatehouse. There are some great photos of the gatehouse here at Castleuk. The gatehouse was extended over the course of sixteen years (1647 to 1663) and eventually almost totally dismantled in 1753. Again, the rougher stone work of parts of this building, demonstrate the age compared to neighbouring buildings.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Cunswick Hall, Nr Kendal

Cunswick Hall
Cunswick Fell near Kendal
Cumbria

It will still be a while before I manage to get a photo of the only remaining part of the fortifications here at Cunswick....the gatehouse is the last vestige of any medieval defences here, the tower having been demolished over four hundred years ago.


Above. A view of the hall from the top of Scout Scar to the South.


The hall lies about two miles West of Kendal, well and truly off the beaten track, but accessible and viewable from the public footpath that runs to the East of the property. From here, unfortunately, only the more modern house can be seen....the gatehouse is hidden within the farm yard and shielded from view by other outbuildings.

The gatehouse is situated in the building just in front of the modern house in the photo shown here. It consists of a two storey building with a low arched thoroughfare, which, some records show, may have been rebuilt or remodelled. At any cost, the gatehouse probably dates from the late 15th or early 16th century, and possesses a Tudor coat of arms above the external (southern) arch. The Grade II listed status of the gatehouse, states that the possible remains of a garderobe or a stair case can be seen in the thickness of the wall. Dennis R. Periam and John Robinson, in their excellent The Medieval Fortified Buildings of Cumbria, have this as a stair case, built into the South wall. The gatehouse can only be viewed from within the farm yard, and as this is private property I've not been able (or brave enough) to get any photos.

Above. Floorplan of the gatehouse.

The pele tower that is said to have sat behind the gatehouse and probably within a walled courtyard, was demolished in 1582, probably to make way for a more comfortable and larger hall. This building too has been demolished, to make way for the more modern building seen today, which is reputed to still have some original medieval glass in one of the windows...locally said to be the oldest glass in Westmorland (the Southern part of modern day Cumbria)

The original hall, tower, courtyard and gatehouse were built by the de Leybourne family, and would have been the seat of the family. Indeed, the Leybournes were living here up until 1715, when the hall and the Leybourne estates passed to the crown as forfeiture for their backing of the Jacobite rising. The estates then became the property of Thomas Crowle in 1721, before finally falling into the vast Lowther estates thereafter.

The hall originally sat at the Southern end of a large parked area, existing up until the late 1500's. This park would have included the tarn to the North East, and a small number of rabbit warrens to the North. These are still visible on aerial photos, albeit faintly.



Above. Memorial to the last of the Leybournes, hanging in Kendal Parish church.




The memorial shown above, commemorates John Leybourne, the last of the Leybourne family in these parts of Westmorland. It is to be found just outside the Bellingham Chapel in the Parish church in Kendal, underneath Robert Phillipson's sword and helmet. The Leybourne family suffered as a result of their continued support of the Stewart claim to the throne. They were fined on many occasions and even had lands and estates removed in 1715. In 1583, James Leybourne was executed at Lancaster after refusing to acknowledge the rule of Queen Elizabeth I. It may have been as a consequence of this, that the pele tower was demolished (1582) They Leybourne family were also resident at Skelsmergh Hall to the North of Kendal, another fortified manor with a tower.





The walk that leads you past the farm, can be accessed from a number of places. It can be accessed from the North, from the B5284, Kendal to Windermere road, about five hundred yards from Plumgarth's farm shop, or from the Underbarrow road which runs from the West of Kendal. Both footpaths are signposted Cunswick Scar, and offer great views out over Lyth Valley and the surrounding fells.

Sunday, August 08, 2010

Tower E, Bootham, York

Tower E
Bootham
York


Tower E can be found about two hundred feet East of Tower D. It is partially obscured by modern buildings, but where there is a gap between two of the street side buildings, about half of the tower is visible together with some of its connecting wall.


Again, this tower was most likely built in 1266. Like Tower D, it still possesses most of its crenelations and parapet walk.

Tower D, Bootham, York

Tower D
Bootham
York

Tower D is situated on Bootham, at the Northern extremes of the abbey precincts. The tower would have formed part of the abbey defences, linking with the city walls at Bootham.

Above. Tower D looking South East.

The tower was most likely built around 1266, and may represent the original form that Tower A and Tower B may taken. It probably stands to its full original height, and still retains its crenelations and a narrow parapet walk.

Above. Tower D from Bootham road side.

This is a really well preserved tower, and easily viewable from the road side.

Tower C, Marygate, York

Tower C
Marygate
York

Tower C lays about about four hundred feet North of Tower B, and is a totally different structure. The early 13th century towers were simpler round towers, whilst this tower is square, open to the rear, and a much later addition to the abbey's precinct defences.

Above. Tower C looking North towards Bootham.

Comparing this tower with others elsewhere on the City walls, it's possible to date it to around 1318. The huge arrow slits, three in total, fit into this time frame.

Above. A close up view of Tower C looking South down Marygate.

Above. Another view of Tower C looking down Marygate.

The tower projects about ten feet from the face of the wall. Unfortunately the tower backs onto private property, so it wasn't possible to inspect the interior. The tower was restored in 1952.

Tower B, Marygate, York

Tower B
Marygate
York

Tower B is a 19th century reconstruction of a tower that was previously demolished. We know that there was an original tower in this position, as it is shown on maps from as late as 1682. It does not appear on maps dated 1700, so must have been demolished sometime after the late 1680's.

Above. Tower B looking North up Marygate.

Tower B lies about two hundred feet North of Tower A, is slightly taller than its sibling and projects an identical five feet from the face of the wall.

Above. Tower B looking South down Marygate.

If the 19th century reconstruction of the tower is correct, and Tower B was the same as Tower A, the original would have been built around 1266. It is not known why the original was demolished, or even if it collapsed due to neglect or siege damage.

Tower A, Marygate, York

Tower A
Marygate
York

Tower A lays less than a hundred feet North of the Water tower on Marygate, and is now little more than an empty stone shell of its former self.

Above. The tower looking North up Marygate.

This tiny tower was probably built in 1266, and altered over the course of the next hundred years or so. It is now a semi-circular structure, about ten feet in diameter and hollow on the inside. The tower projects about five feet beyond the front face of the wall.

Above. The tower looking South towards the River Ouse.

The above photo shows the tower looking towards the river. The Water tower is hidden below the brown stone wall visible at the end of the road. It's likely that much stone has been removed from the top of both the wall and the tower here, as both are no more than six feet high now.

The Water Tower, York

The Water Tower
Marygate
York

The water tower lays at the South Western corner of the abbey precincts, and marks the end of the Marygate walls at the river's edge. The tower is thought to have been built sometime between 1318 and 1324.

Above. A view of the Water tower from the Yorkshire Eye across the river Ouse.

The tower is circular in plan, with a hexagonal interior. There are five arrow slits in the thick walls, and a door to the rear.

Above. The tower from the river side showing one of the huge arrow slits.

The small postern attached to the tower, shown above, is of no great antiquity. The tower is thought to have originally been crenelated, although the top portion of the structure is now missing, and was also two storey high.

Above. Another view of the Water tower from the river side.

The tower is accessible from the footpath that runs West along the river from Lendal Bridge. Marygate is then directly accessible from this point....just in case you want to continue your walk around the walls!

Marygate walls, York

Marygate walls
Marygate
York
Yorkshire

The abbey of St Mary is surrounded by a lightly defensible precinct wall, incorporating towers and gates. The portion that runs down Marygate, from Bootham to the North banks of the River Ouse is almost completely intact, and includes five towers.

Above. St Mary's tower at the Northern corner of the abbey precinct defences.

Built sometime between 1318 and 1324 by Stephen de Austewyk, St Mary's tower has changed much over the years. It is a two storey structure, around thirty four feet in diameter, with an octagonal interior. It was badly damaged during the 1644 siege of York, and subsequently rebuilt. The tower was mined by Parliamentarian forces during the attack, with an explosion beneath its foundations almost totally destroying it. The subsequent breach in the walls enabled Cromwell's army to gain access to the city, fighting their way to the King's Manor. However the attack was soon repelled with many injured and killed. The tower was rather crudely rebuilt, with much thinner walls, and some rather inexplicable external faults...still visible today.

Above. Looking South along Marygate.

The walls along Marygate stretch from St Mary's tower right down to the River Ouse, some four hundred and fifty meters in total. For most of the way down Marygate, the walls still stand to between fifteen and twenty feet tall.

Above. Looking North along Marygate towards St Mary's tower on Bootham.

The wall appears to be quite thin along this stretch of wall (shown below)....whether this is a more recent state, or whether it has always been this way I'm not sure. There were buildings and houses built right up against the wall (on the grass strip shown above) up until the early part of the 20th century, but they were removed at some point, leaving us with the views we can see today.

Above. Looking South along Marygate with one of the walls towers visible.

The walls along Marygate were built around 1266, with a license to crenellate granted some considerable time later. The wording of the license is as follows "Licence for the abbot and convent of St. Mary's, York, to crenellate their abbey, which is without the city of York, but is contiguous thereto, provided that the wall to be constructed between the abbey and the wall of the city shall not exceed 16 feet in height and shall not be crenellated." (Many thanks to Philip Davis and the Gatehouse web site)

Above. A gun loop in the wall along Marygate.

The gun loop shown above would probably have been added during the run up to the 1644 siege of York. Many changes and repairs would most likely have taken place during the civil war, as the defending Royalist garrison realised that Cromwell would send his army against the city. Gun loops would have been added to various parts of the city's walls, to enable the defenders to deploy muskets to aid the city's defence. There is another loop a few yards away from this one.

Above. Looking North towards the River Ouse on Marygate.

The walls around St Mary's Abbey appear to differ from the major walls of the city in one important way, in that they did not possess a stone walkway behind the crenellations. There may have been a wooden walkway for any patrolling of the precinct walls, but this has obviously not survived. It may be that the walls here were more of a symbolic protection, visibly separating the grounds of the abbey from the rest of the city of York.

The walls are visible from Marygate, from Bootham down to the river. From the gateway near the church of St Olave, the interior of the lower stretch of the wall is also visible.

Tuesday, August 03, 2010

St Olave's gatehouse, York

St Olave's gatehouse
Marygate
York
Yorkshire

It would appear from some internet sources, that the roof of St Olave was used as a gun platform during the siege of York in 1644. Between June the 3rd and June the 16th, Parliamentarian forces pounded York from a number of positions around the city, including the gun emplacement built on the roof of the church. As a result, it would seem that the Royalist forces within the city walls returned fire, badly damaging the church and its attendant buildings. Rebuilding didn't really take place until the early 18th century, when all the damage was finally made good using stone from the now ruined St Mary's Abbey next door. This has echoes of St John the Baptist in Chester, and that particular church's use in the siege of that city.

Above. Looking North East up Marygate.

The walls that run along Marygate suddenly end half way along the nave of the church of St Olave. I think this small portion of wall was probably dismantled when the church was rebuilt and extended in around 1466. For some reason it seems to have been deemed safe for the North wall of the Nave to replace the otherwise sturdily built defensive city walls.

Above. The interior North East wall of the gatehouse.

The gatehouse would originally have been a fully covered structure, with gates at the street end (Marygate) and at the other end. As with gatehouses at other great monastic sites, such as Furness and Shap, the gatehouse would have been used for security rather than defence, and would have enabled the administrators of St Olaves to control the flow of traffic to and from the abbey precincts. Gatehouses for these religious houses would most likely have also provided them with a certain degree of autonomy from the city of York's administrative bodies, essentially separating the abbey from the city....emphasising their place in the social structure of the time.

Above. The interior South West wall of the gatehouse.

From what I can gather, the gatehouse was probably built during the 15th century, although parts of the external walls attached to the archway are thought to be 12th century, probably indicating that there was an earlier structure on this site. The lodge attached to the gatehouse would have been used as accommodation for important guests.

Above. Looking onto Marygate.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Old Sedgwick Gunpowder works, Near Sedgwick\Natland

Old Sedgwick Gunpowder works,
Near Sedgwick\Natland
Cumbria

Visible from Hawes Bridge over the River Kent, some two miles South of Kendal, and about a mile West of Natland, the remains of the weir and mill race can still be seen in the waters of the River Kent.

Above. Looking South along the River Kent.

Looking at the photo above and below....the scant remains of the weir and mill race can still be seen. There is a large inlet and then a narrower channel that runs along the far river bank. This would have originally have channeled water from the river, into a fast flowing head race, which would then have directed the water towards a wheel pit with a water wheel in. This wheel would have been used to power mills for milling and preparing the gunpowder.

Above. Looking South along the River Kent.

Above. From the river side, the weir is all but hidden.

The Old Sedgwick gun powder works operated from 1764 until 1850. It was the earliest gunpowder works in the area.

Sedgwick Gunpowder Works, Nr Sedgwick

Low Sedgwick Gunpowder works
Near Sedgwick
Cumbria

Low Park Wood caravan site lies on the West banks of the River Kent, shrouded in trees and very private, and only about a quarter of a mile North West of the village of Sedgwick. Walking around the caravan site, the remains of buildings, mill races, leats and curious earthworks abound. The works here at Sedgwick, operated from 1857 until 1935, and have left a visible reminder of the work that once took place here.


Above. Looking into the remains of the incorporating mills.

The company was established by Walter Charles Strickland of Sizergh Castle, and John Hudson of Kendal in January 1857. The Sedgwick Gunpowder Company Ltd was granted its license on the 9th of April 1857, with John Hudson as Chairman, and William Cartmell as the resident Manager. £20,000 capital was made available to the company, with the intention of creating a state of the art mill, producing top quality powder. A 21 year lease was drawn up for the rental of the river banks at Kidd Holme and Low Park Wood. In 1858 there were eight men employed at the works, but this was soon to change when Walter Strickland was able to recruit more men from further afield.


Above. Looking into the remains of the incorporating mills.

The River Kent is a fast flowing river, and with construction of a wooden weir across its width, a long head race was constructed...over 700 yards long, and with a total drop of around 20 feet. The head race, much of which survives to this day, was nine feet wide and originally five feet deep, although very much silted up these days. The head race was constructed of stone, and lined with concrete. The stone used to build this important structure, was quarried from a small quarry opened nearby on the Eastern side of the river.

Above. Looking along the now dry leat.

Above. A still water filled stretch of the leat.

The head race initially powered six incorporating mills, all of which were driven by a single 37 foot water wheel which generated an impressive 90hp.

Above. Looking into the remains of the incorporating mills.

Either side of the wheel, were three mills taking their power from a square shaft which was turned by a ring wheel attached to each side of the water wheel. These three mills had stone runners, each of which weighed in the region of four and a half tonnes and had a diameter of seven feet.

Above. Looking into a dry stretch of the leat.

Above. Another water filled, river side stretch of the leat.

Above. The leat, very near to where water is diverted into it from the River Kent.

Water from the head race fell into the wheel pit and from here, flowed out into an underground culvert that flowed for a further 100 yards back into the river. An alternative leat was used to carry water to the sawmill where a turbine was powered.

Above. Looking into the remains of the wheel pit (minus the water wheels)

The corning machinery from Greenock in Scotland, was manufactured by a company called Messrs. Hastie and was situated next to the head race, just to the North of the incorporating mills. The sulphur house, situated to the East of the incorporating mills, was the largest building at Sedgwick. The Gaze house stood next to the river side. This building was powered by its own eighteen foot water wheel, which took water from the head race. North of the glaze house stood the stove house, used to dry the gunpowder in temperatures of around 126 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature was maintained for twelve to fifteen hours a day. In 1858 the only other buildings here at Sedgwick were the mixing house and the cooperage, which still stand today. There was no tramway to move powder and materials at this early stage of the works life, so everything had to be moved by hand in barrows and carts. Although limited amounts of powder were being produced at this time and were being sold to both domestic and foreign markets, by 1858, the Sedwick Gunpowder Company Ltd was in serious financial trouble. Although the infrastructure was sound, the company was underfunded and was not able to produce the amounts of powder necessary. In June 1864, the company ceased trading due to lack of funds, and by September of the same year, it was officially wound up.

Above. Looking into the remains of the incorporating mills.

It wasn't long before a new company, imaginatively named the New Sedgwick Gunpowder Company Ltd appeared on the scene, no doubt eager to make use of the foundations laid by the previous company. The company was backed by a group of Manchester businessmen, with a starting investment of £50,000 raised through the issue of £10 shares. The new company, headed by Henry Swinglehurst from Appleby, set about building a new set of mills in addition to the existing ones. A new twenty foot water wheel was built, as well as a tramway and a storage magazine. It is estimated that these additional building works cost around £8,000. The new mills operated eight hour shifts, and as a result were able to produce over 4,000lbs of powder a week.

Above. Looking into the remains of the incorporating mills.

The new company utilised the areas two main transport systems...the canal, which was only a few miles away, and the railway. Both forms of transport were used to bring the inward bound raw materials, and the outward bound finished products. The port at Milnthorpe was also used for the shipment of finished powder.

Above. Looking into the remains of the incorporating mills.

On the 22nd of October 1871, the New Sedgwick mills experienced first hand the unpredictable nature of the very substance they were striving to produce. During the course of some maintenance work, a spark from a chisel being used on the roof of the press house, ignited powder residue, causing a substantial flash explosion. Thomas Jackson was flung, together with the whole of the roof, into the air, suffering two broken arms and a fractured skull. Two other workers standing nearby suffered serious burns. Thomas Jackson was later to die from his injuries. Re-building work was slow to commence, and even slower to complete, extending well into 1872.

Above. Looking towards the incorporating mills.

The mills suffered yet another explosion, on the 24th of April 1874, when William Dodgson and Will Booth both suffered burns after an explosion in the corning house. Both men survived and continued to work for the company. The next year, on the 30th of June (1875) there was yet another explosion at the mill. The corning house exploded, followed a split second later by the press house. This time there was significant loss of life. William Booth, survivor of the 1874 explosion died, as did Charles Page and William Dalzell. William Dodgson, also a survivor of the 1874 explosion, died of his injuries later that night. As a result of this accident, both the corning house and press house were completely destroyed, along with all the machinery employed in these two buildings. As well as the sad loss of life, the destruction of the buildings and machinery cost the company in the region of £500. The whole site had to be shut down whilst repairs and rebuilding works were undertaken. 1878 saw another two explosions on site, albeit with no further loss of life and minimum damage.

1880 and 1881 saw the company experimenting with the manufacture of gun powder cartridges. New machinery was brought in and a new hydraulic press was constructed, powered by water from the head race. Unfortunately for the company, the processes they were using were already under patent, and a legal challenge was mounted. A date was set for the hearing to take place, but it never happened, so the works were able to continue manufacturing their new products. The company further expanded its line of products, by adding compressed powder pellets to its catalogue, for use in coal mines.

The 12th of April 1883 saw perhaps the worst accident at Sedgwick in its 78 year operational history. This time, the cartridge house, situated about three hundred yards from the main site office, exploded. Such was the ferocity of this blast, it was heard in Kendal and witnesses attest to the bright white light the explosion emitted, closely followed by thick black smoke. Three men were killed in this enormous blast. James Shepherd died a few hours after the explosion. His colleague Henry Cheeseman also died a few hours after the accident. Arthur Cheeseman, Henry's uncle died two days later. Although the death toll was only three, the sheer size of the explosion seems to have destroyed a huge amount of machinery and buildings. An inquest cleared the company of any wrong doings and blame.

In 1885, one of the incorporating mills was struck by lightening, killing a powder man. In 1886, the company was purchased by Henry Swinglehurst who had managed to buy out his fellow investors and owners. The company was renamed as the New Sedgwick Gunpowder Company Ltd. Henry appointed his son, J.A. Swinglehurst as manager and the company became a family interest. The new company employed in the region of fifty people and was now producing around twenty five tonnes of powder a week. Henry Swinglehurst died in 1895, control of the company being handed over to his son.

1900 saw the technology for power production at the works greatly improved, with the addition of turbines built by Gilkes and Son of Kendal.

Above. The cooperage and saw mill, with the remains of the turbine tower.

Five turbines were installed creating a total output of around 50hp. The water wheels, head race and leats were all but redundant.

Above. The leat flowing into a small wheel pit to power the cooperage.

Above. The remains of one of the Gilbert Gilkes turbines.

1903 saw yet another huge explosion at the works, again as the result of sparks from maintenance work being carried out. The 30th of March explosion saw the deaths of two of workers, James Shaw and Edmond Newton. The glazing house exploded as a result of sparks from a bronze hammer being wielded by Edmond Newton, who was engulfed by the explosion. In total, it's estimated that around 8100lbs of powder exploded. This huge explosion sent red hot debris flying onto the roof of the corning house, which contained an additional 1000lbs of powder....it wasn't long before this too exploded.

It seems that the later years were nothing but a list of accidents and explosions....23rd June 1906, was no different. The weather was warm and muggy, with thunder storms rumbling in the distance. Sometimes toward 11pm a flash and a loud clap of thunder heralded a huge explosion, emanating from the press house. Lightening had struck this building igniting powder stored here. The ensuing investigation into this explosion, which had damaged the press house, number eight mill and number nine mill, concluded that there may have been three lightening strikes in very quick succession. It was lucky that not only were there no deaths in this incident, no-one was even injured. It's ironic that the only building totally destroyed by the lightening strikes, the press house, was also the only building that had been kitted out with a lightening conductor.

Above. Possibly one of the stove buildings.

In 1917 the company was acquired by Explosives Trades Ltd, and the Swinglehursts finally let go of the company. The company then changed hands again, in 1920, this time it was taken over by Nobel Industries Ltd. The new owners introduced new production methods and new machinery, including a mass of hydraulic equipment. The new machinery enabled workers to produce up to one hundred cartridges at a time, whereas before the older equipment had limited them to about eight. Sedgwick was now producing about 11,000lbs of cartridges a week by now. In 1926, the final owners took over, ICI, who had started to buy up many of the powder works in Cumbria. Very little of any substance appears to have happened between 1926 and 1935, when the Sedgwick works finally closed. All we are left with now, are the intriguing buildings, walls, channels and mounds of earth dotted around this river side location....a living memorial to those that lived, worked and lost their lives here.



Thursday, July 01, 2010

Victoria Bridge, Kendal

Victoria Bridge
Kendal
Cumbria

Victoria Bridge links Sandes Avenue with Station Road and carries the A6 over the River Kent. It was built in answer to demands for better access to the railway to the North East of town, with calls for a road along Sandes Close as early as 1867.

Above. A view of Victoria Bridge looking North West.

However...it wasn't until 1883 that Kendal Corporation decided to borrow around £25000 for the building of the new Sandes Avenue Road, and a bridge to carry it over the Kent. The designs for the new bridge were drawn up by a Mr Gilkes, and it was to be called "Victoria Bridge".

Above. Kendal's coat of arms, represented all along the parapet of Victoria Bridge.

It was opened to coincide with Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee celebrations in 1887.