Godmond Hall, Burneside

Godmond Hall
Burneside
Nr Kendal

This converted pele tower lays to the North of Burneside (to the East of Kendal) and just of the A591. At first glance, this beautiful building is nothing more than a secluded but large house hiding away at the foot of Potter Fell.

Above. An old painting of Godmond Hall.

On closer inspection however, the building can be seen to fit into that class of buildings common to this area....the pele tower. Looking at the photo, the pele tower is to the right of the main portion of the house, and has been much altered since its defensive days. The tower was built sometime during the mid 15th century, and the main house in the 17th century. The tower is two storeys high over a vaulted basement. The gabled roof replaces what was probably a flat roof with battlements.

The tower was probably built by the Godmond family, and in documents dating from 1777, the walls of the tower are described as being "two yards in thickness or upwards, and firmly cemented." The windows are described as being "small and crossed with bars of iron." The floors are described as being made of "many planks grooved into each other, to prevent assaults from above." The threat of attack was thought to come from 'raiders' unroofing the tower, and descending through the floors above.

Privately owned, the house is very difficult to photograph, most of all because of the well kept gardens. It probably warrants a visit in Winter when hedges and trees are bare.

Castle Dairy, Kendal

Castle Dairy

Wildman Street

Kendal

Cumbria

Kendal’s oldest inhabited building, the Castle Dairy, lies on the North side of Wildman Street, about a hundred yards from Stramongate Bridge. Built in the 14th century as a cross wing house, the building retains many original features and is in particularly good condition. Originally a farm house, no doubt standing in open fields before the buildings of Wildman Street were erected, the house would have had open views towards the River Kent. The building was extensively re-modelled for Anthony Garnett, a successful local business man, in the 1560’s.

The name Dairy, is somewhat a misnomer, as the dairy associated with the castle, would most likely have been built closer to the outer curtain walls. It’s most likely that the name has been mis-spelled in the past, and in fact relates to Dowry….meaning a house where a Dower, or a widow would have lived. The house probably has connections with the steward of Kendal castle (as does the New inn on Highgate)

The house started life as a single storey cross wing house, a simple house with a range at one end. It’s quite likely that the two wings were added in the 1560’s, when Anthony Garnett gained possession of the building. Indeed, his name, initials and associated dates are scattered around the house in a host of intriguing carvings and stained glass windows.

From the outside, the single storey hall has three single arched sandstone windows to the left of the main doorway. The heads to these windows have been replaced fairly recently, including the carved faces. To the left of these windows, there is another simple sash window, next to a smaller door. Some old black and white photos of the house, show a stone built porch over this door. However it’s now been dismantled. Above the main door, a small date stone can be seen, bearing the initials AG and a date of 1564.

The right hand wing houses a huge square chimney, whereas the left hand wing has a traditional Westmorland chimney, round stacks and very tall. The dove cotes under the eaves of this wing appear to be still open to the elements, and sit above two sandstone arched windows. The ground floor windows are more recent simple sash windows. Each side wall of the first floor room has a small window in it, each one barely 10 inches high and 8 inches wide.

The left hand wing has similar windows, although the ground floor windows look much older, the sandstone more weathered and the lintel at a jaunty angle. This wing is an almost identical copy of the right hand wing, except for the round Westmorland chimneys, and the blocked dove cotes. The ground floor side wall has a tiny window in just below chest level. It is probably about 8 inches high, and no more than 4 inches wide, and consists of three tiny leaded panes of glass. Likewise, there is a similar window on the outside of the first floor of this wing. This time the window is about 6 inches high, about 3 inches wide, and again consists of three tiny leaded panes of glass. This window has a slightly arched head, and a solid sandstone surround.

Entrance to the house is gained through a doorway in the South East of the central hall. This single storey room contains a large range that dominates the wall to the left.

All the wood work in the hall is dark wood, probably oak (or so I’ve been told) and it dominates the house throughout making it dark and quite claustrophobic. The floor of the hall is made of huge slabs of what looks like Lakeland slate. To the right of the hall a small staircase provides access to the first floor North East wing. Above it is a small piece of vaulted ceiling. Two of the windows to this part of the house, contain tiny stained glass windows. Each window is no more than 5 inches high, and is a simple diamond shape, with the pattern\design painted in vivid yellow paint. Again, I’m told that these are all original. The first window contains the letters AG (for Anthony Garnett) surrounded by knot work. A grimacing skull is painted at the bottom angle of the window. The second window has a yellow fleur de lis capped with a crown.

To the rear of the hall, a small low passageway takes you through to the South West wing ground floor. The date 1560 can be seen clearly carved into the left hand wooden panel of the doorway. The other side of this piece of wood is carved with a Latin inscription: “PAX HUIE DOMUI” with a date that is too feint to read. It perhaps says 1718.

This small dark passageway leads to the hallway that links the older 14th century hall with the additional wing. There are three fine sand stone arches here, providing access into the one room of this wing. Up until the 1980’s, all but two of these were blocked off. The stone mason marks can still be seen carved into the stone uprights of the door ways. The floor of this passageway is of interest here. It continues into the room occupying the ground floor of this wing also. Legend has it, that this floor, collectively made of thousands of worn pieces of stone no more than a few inches long, is part of the old roman road that may have run along the banks of the River Kent, leading to the ford that was once placed where Stramongate bridge is now. Whether this is true or not….who knows, but this is a startling piece of architecture.

Moving into the main room of this wing, the walls are made of the old dark oak throughout, and serve to partition the room from a small passageway that then leads onto the kitchen from the days the Castle Dairy was a restaurant. The door that separates the kitchen from the rest of the building would originally have been an external door. It is thick dark oak with huge metal hinges, and sits inside yet another sandstone doorway. The floor here is a continuation of the pebbled floor in the small passageway next door.

Returning across the hallway and back through the central block, the area that was used as a bar is perhaps the most disappointing room in the whole house. The floor here has been replaced with a modern tiled floor. The bar area occupies an area that was once partitioned off but has since had the old wood panelling removed. All in all, the room is to all intents and purposes, a modern room.

Climbing the stairs to the first floor of the North East wing, takes you to the most interesting room of the whole hall. A short corridor to your right leads to the bedroom, which contains two interesting pieces of furniture. The first item is the magnificent four poster bed.

Again this is made of the dominant dark oak wood. The main feature is the head board, which is decorated with two male heads, one with horns, the other with what looks like rodent’s ears.

There are three maned lions beneath this, and the centre piece is probably the coat of arms of Anthony Garnett, for it is undoubtedly his bed. The coat of arms is made up of the letters AG surrounded with knot work (as in the stained glass windows) The second item of furniture in this room, is the dark oak ambrey.

The cornice of this fanciful piece of furniture is inscribed with yet more Latin: “OIA VANITAS HONOR DIVICIE POTESTAS” The date 1562 and the initials AG. A lion’s head sits in the midst of the Latin inscription. This room has a beautiful barrel vaulted ceiling, with dark oak supports running its full length.

Where these supports are joined, there are carved wooden bosses with more coats of arms carved on them.

There used to be three of these bosses, but only two now remain. The first contains symbols representing the families of Parr, Fitz-Hugh, Roos and Anthony Garnett. The second contains symbols representing the families of Deincourt and Strickland. One of the oak supports rests upon a finely carved pair of Gryphon heads.

There are also another four stained glass windows in this room. Again, each window is around 5 inches high, and diamond in shape. The first window shows the letters AG in yellow, with a grimacing skull beneath it. The second window shows an eagle plucking a child from a tree top. The third window shows the same scene, albeit with the yellow paint much removed. The last window shows the initials AG surrounded by knot-work. Besides the two main windows in this room, there are two additional tiny ones. Each window is no more than 8 inches high, and set within the thick walls.

Moving back down the first floor corridor, a doorway gives way to what was reputedly the chapel of the house. The wall separating the hall way from this room is dark oak panelled, whilst the other main internal wall is oak with plaster partitions (archetypal Tudor panelling) The windows in this room lend themselves to the idea that it was once a domestic chapel. They are distinctly arched with small leaded panels.

The First floor of the South West wing was unfortunately not explored. This wing is entered from the outside via a small flight of steps, and on the day I visited the keys were not available. A return trip will have to be made.

All in all the building is a stunning piece of medieval architecture, in excellent condition, and standing amongst buildings from many periods. It is probably Kendal’s only surviving ‘true’ medieval house, the many others in the town having much building work and redesign done on their fabric. Although it’s not open to the public, it can be viewed easily from Wildman street.

Medieval towers, St Tropez

St Tropez

France

A recent trip to St Tropez in the South of France revealed these medieval towers guarding the harbour in this ancient southern town.

There are three towers in total, guarding the harbour: Guillaume Tower (also known as Suffren Tower), Portalet Tower and Jarlier Tower. There are only two of the three pictured here (it was far too hot and far too busy to go looking for the third)

St Tropez also has a large 16th century citadel which now houses the Naval museum, but the three harbour towers are much older than this building.

Similar to the St Tropez towers, is the following...this time in Jersey, and not as old. This tower can be found at Greve de Lecq, on the North coast of the island. It was built sometime around 1778, probably being one of the first towers to be built in the face of a French\Napoleonic invasion.

The photo above (courtesy of Charles Jeffries) clearly shows the machicoulis...gaps in the masonry that the defenders could use to fire missiles at anyone attacking the base of the tower. This tower was part of a building project that incorporated the erection of 22 towers, later leading to a vast building project incorporating the South coast of England...again planning for the protection against a French\Napoleonic invasion. This tower did not stand alone in its defence of the North coast (for which it was the only tower built in this region) To the West of the tower, a redoubt was built on the headland, and on the other side of the bay, two batteries were built. The tower is painted white on the seaward side, making it visible far out at sea. This serves as a navigational marker for ships. The landward side is unpainted.

Preston Patrick Hall, Preston Patrick

Preston Patrick Hall
Preston Patrick
Cumbria

Situated about seven miles to the South of Kendal, Preston Patrick is a dispersed area of small hamlets and farms, and one of the older parishes in the South Lakes area. The area’s history dates back to the 12th century when Thomas de Wyrkington founded an abbey of Premonstratensian canons between today’s Preston Patrick and Holme. The site was eventually abandoned in favour of Shap Abbey. The name “Preston Patrick” is derived from “Priest’s town” or “Priest’s farm”, and from Patrick de Curwen, an earlier owner of the manorial area.

Above. Old photo of the hall.

After the dissolution of the monasteries, during the reign of Henry VIII, Thomas Preston, the then holder of the manor of Preston Patrick, purchased Furness Abbey from the crown, this purchase also including vast tracts of lands. He then quit Preston Patrick Hall in favour of the more comfortable lodgings at the abbey. From this time on, he made sure that the family name was altered slightly, so that in documentation, any Preston was to be known as a Preston of the Manor and the Abbey. No doubt a show of wealth and familial significance. In the 16th century, the hall and the manor passed to John Preston of Preston Richard and Nether Levens Hall, by way of marriage to Ellyn Curwen.

The hall as it is to be seen today was largely built in the late 14th century. It resembles Selside Hall near Kendal, with its twin wings, each of two storeys, and large connecting central hall.

Indeed, both wings, front and back, and an element of the extension to the left of the building are all dated to the late 14th century, with elements of both the ground floor and the first floor of the central hall also dating from this period. The central hall contains elements of some rebuilding work from the late 15th and early 16th centuries, as well some further rebuilding and redesign from the 17th century. The hall block was probably heightened during this latter period of rebuilding, and remains open right the way to the roof timbers.

Above. Floor plan of Preston Patrick Hall.

The basement in the right hand tower is vaulted, whilst the basement in the left tower is joisted. Whether this indicates two periods of building is unclear, but could just mean that the left tower was repaired at a later date using newer building methods.

Above. Machel's sketch of Preston Patrick Hall.

The right hand tower contains a room once used as a manorial courtroom on the first floor. This room is entered through a doorway at the top of a later flight of stairs, which clearly was once a window. The sandstone heads still remain in place. The courtroom was used to pass judgments on local Quaker preachers when the breakaway religion was first finding its feet. When the hall was being altered, a hidden staircase was discovered built into the wall, linking the house to the courtroom.

Some documentary evidence seems to suggest that the site was surrounded by a curtain wall, and that there was also an additional tower.

Beetham Hall, Beetham

Beetham Hall

Beetham

Nr Milnthorpe
Cumbria

Travelling North on the A6, and about two miles South of Milnthorpe, Beetham Hall is easily visible from the road. The remains of this magnificent medieval hall are still incredibly numerous, with a tower, chapel, hall and out buildings surviving from the 13th century, mixed in with later buildings and barns.

Above. A view of Beetham Hall from the A6 to the South East.

Although the hall is privately owned, I think the owners are aware of the interest that such a building has for members of the public. As well as being allowed to freely roam the site on the day I visited, there are small signs dotted around the interior of the buildings stating what function they used to have. I understand that the property is owned by the estate at Dallam Tower, which also owns Heversham Hall.

Above. Part of the curtain wall.

As you approach up the drive from the main road, the first thing that you come across are the remnants of the curtain wall, or barmkyn. To the right of the drive these remain to around 15 feet high in some places, with loop holes still visible in much of the remaining wall. At around a foot and a half thick in places, the curtain wall would have provided good defence against a small scale raid or attack.

Above. Part of the curtain wall.

The wall’s route to the left of the site of the original gatehouse is now built over by a late 18th century or early 19th century barn. In fact, most of the curtain wall to the left of the driveway has long since been built over, with the only remains left protecting the corner of the courtyard. The curtain wall to the rear of the site has been destroyed, as has the portion that would have run along the North West side of the courtyard. Some of the wall’s remains have possibly corbels at the highest point. It’s been suggested that a wooden wall walk may have been built onto these supports.

Above. Interior of the courtyard showing the curtain wall.

Once in the courtyard the farm house is the first building to be seen, directly in front of you. This building dates from the 17th century, possibly 1693 or 1653 (the date stone is well worn) and was originally built for Thomas Brabin.

Above. Chapel window and piscina.

To the left of the house, and to the South of the courtyard, lays the remains of the Great Hall. This building would once have been the centre of the hall, and is 40 feet by 25 feet in size. The hall was lit by huge windows dating from the 14th century.

Above. Window in the old Hall.

They are still in situ, but most have been blocked up, probably to stop the sandstone supports from falling out. The left of the hall are the remains of the buttery wing, now much in ruin. These remains have Western walls from roughly the 14th century, and on the East, walls of a 17th century nature.

Above. The South facing window in the chapel.

To the right of the hall lays the solar wing, the Lordly living quarters of the whole complex. The solar is a two storey building, once four storeys, now roofless, with a small chapel on the first floor. The fine end window can still be seen in place, with sandstone arch heads. In the wall of the chapel a small piscina can still be seen embedded in the wall next to a small single light window.

Above. The solar tower at the South of the complex of buildings.

A door leads from the solar wing to a modern terrace that overlooks the fields to the South West of the complex. Here the outer wall of the solar wing shows considerable damage, with the huge cross walls damaged to about head height. All the windows are in situ and open, bar one, which has been bricked up.

Above. The chapel and the hall (to the right)

The hall was certainly built in the early 14th century, and has been continually added to over the years. After 1485, the lands at Beetham were forfeited to the crown when the Betham\Bethum family were found to have backed the Yorkist army at the battle of Bosworth Field. Henry VII granted the estates to the Stanley family in recognition of the fact that they had deserted the army of Richard III and joined Henry VII’s army, influencing the outcome of the battle in Henry’s favour.

Above. Another view of the chapel.

The hall was once again involved in political intrigue and royal jousting when it was besieged by Thomas Fairfax in 1644 during the civil war, suffering damage at the hands his forces. It’s not known what amount of damage was caused by this attack, but the hall was partially rebuilt in the 17th century.

Above. Beetham Hall from the South.

Above. Another view from the South.

Eventually it passed into the hands of the Cliffords (like many castles and towers in the Westmorland\Cumbria area) and then eventually into the hands of the Wilsons of Dallam Tower near Milnthorpe in 1767, and under who’s ownership it remains today.

Above. The solar tower from the West.

Although this is a private property, it can be seen clearly from the road side (A6) and also from a footpath that runs behind the property. Excellent views can be had from both vantage points.

Penrith Castle, Penrith

Penrith Castle

Penrith

Cumbria

Penrith castle sits opposite Penrith station, sandwiched between Ullswater Road and Castle Terrace. With its Southern position in the town, it was the last of four fortified buildings in Penrith (the others being Hutton Hall, the Two Lions inn and St Andrew’s church)

Penrith castle is probably one of the most recognisable castles in Cumbria….a simple square plan castle of red sandstone, sitting on top of a low motte and surrounded by a dry ditch. The castle was originally a small pele tower, the remains of which exist to about chest height, and with a vaulted cellar below the flat platform that marks where the thin tower walls would have stood.

All that remains of the Strickland Tower is the platform from which this photo was taken.

This is the vaulted cellar beneath the remains of the Strickland Tower.

Penrith was always at the forefront of the border wars between England and Scotland, within easy reach of raiding and invading Scottish armies, and sometimes neglected by the English. In 1242, the manor of Penrith was in the guardianship of King Alexander of Scotland. The manor was granted to him in 1237 as part of a deal struck in York. The terms of the agreement were that King Alexander should give up all rights to Cumberland, Westmorland and Northumberland for an annual payment of £200 from the English crown. When Alexander died, the manor was inherited by John Baliol, but when he and Edward I quarrelled, the manor was seized by the English crown and granted to Anthony, Bishop of Durham. In 1345, in revenge for the loss of the manor of Penrith, a Scottish army crossed the border and burnt Penrith and the nearby towns of Salkeld and Sowerby. The following year (1346) a licence to crenellate was granted to the town, allowing for town walls to be constructed. The licence reads "Licence for the good men of Penereth to crenellate their town." (many thanks to Philip Davis) How much work was done on these defences is not known, but nothing now survives of them.

Documentation tells us that John de Deux, Duke of Brittany granted land at Penrith, by way of a lease, to William Strickland. Included in this grant, was the right to build a fortalice, or a small fortification, which the Duke of Brittany held the right to use when he was in the area. In 1397, William Strickland received license to crenellate the fortification from Richard II, and a pele tower was built. The exact wording of the license is as follows: “quandam cameram suam in villa de Penreth. Licence for William Stirkeland, clerk, to crenellate his chamber in Penreth in the March of Scotland.” There is some confusion over the exact location of this pele tower though. Some documentation seems to suggest that the tower is the one that still remains at Hutton Hall, whilst most historians agree that the license relates to the Strickland Tower at Penrith Castle. This tower is situated at the North East side of the castle, and as mentioned above, survives only to chest height. The entrance that leads into the courtyard today runs alongside the platform that this tower would have originally stood on. In 1399, yet another license to crenellate was granted, this time to build a barmkyn around the yard. The wording for the license is as follows: “Licence for William de Stirkeland, to whom the king lately granted licence to crenellate with stone and lime a chamber in Penreth upon the March of Scotland, to make a mantlet of stone and lime, join it to the said chamber and crenellate the same and so hold it for ever, in aid and succour of the said town and adjacent country. The roll recites the previous grant thus: "nuper," &c., "concessimus," &c., "licentiam," &c., "kernellandi quandam cameram in villa de Penreth March. Scociae. Nos de uberiori gratia nostra concessimus" &c., "licentiam quod ipse unum mantelettum de petra et calce facere et camerae prasdictae conjungere et mantelettum praedictam kernellare” These defensive walls were around 1.5 metres thick and remain in place today to their original height on the South East and South West sides, but have been pretty much destroyed everywhere else.

At this stage in the castle’s life, the internal buildings within the barmkyn would most likely have been of wood. It wasn’t until the early 1400’s, that Ralph Neville, Earl of Westmorland, who was granted the castle by Henry IV started to rebuild the internal buildings in stone, as well as adding the Red Tower to the North West of Strickland’s Tower. (William Strickland had become the Bishop of Carlisle in 1400, so his interests lay elsewhere) The new stone buildings also included a great chamber, a chapel, a private chamber, a great Hall, kitchens and last of all, the White Tower in the North West corner of the castle’s yard.

The remains of the Red Tower.

The remains of the White Tower.

Ralph Neville was killed at the battle of Barnet in 1471, and subsequently, Edward IV granted the castle and the town of Penrith to his brother, the Duke of Gloucester, later to become Richard III. The moat was most likely also added at this stage. Richard Duke of Gloucester continued the expansion of the castle, building a strong gateway to the North West of the Red Tower.

The remains of the North Western gatehouse.

The tower here was built out beyond the castle’s walls, to a position where the gate house could be easily defended from the tower walls. The Duke effectively turned the castle into a Royal residence, and during the building work took up residence at the nearby Duke of Gloucester inn.

The Duke of Gloucester Inn.

Most of the buildings on the North West of the castle have been destroyed to such an extent, that there are barely any walls existing now that stand above waste height. The Kitchens and some store rooms are situated in this area, and although the floor plans are clearly visible, little remains of the walls above ground. A survey of 1565 tells us that the North East gatehouse was mostly collapsed at this time. Henry VIII had had materials from the castle removed to be used in building elsewhere. A further survey of the castle from 1572, describes the North Western gatehouse as in total ruin, the stables in danger of imminent collapse and the chapel, great chamber, hall and kitchens as un-repairable. It was also noticed that much stone had been removed from the castle.

The last years of the castle seem to be of little consequence. In 1648, it was used as a base by General Lambert for about a month. It was granted to the Duke of Portland by William III in 1694, and was later sold to the Duke of Devonshire, and then sold onto the Lancaster and Carlisle railway company. Penrith Urban Council obtained the castle in 1914, against the will of the people of Penrith, and the site was excavated and consolidated during the 1920’s.

Lowther Castle, Lowther

Lowther Castle
Lowther
Cumbria

About a mile to the West of the village of Lowther, and South of the church of St Michael, Lowther castle overlooks the massive parks laid out in the early 19th century.

The castle was started in 1806 for Sir Hugh Lowther, and built following designs by Sir Robert Smirke. This relatively modern 19th century building is sited either on, or near earlier towers and peles, dating from 1272, 1350, 1628 and 1692. These earlier buildings were variously great houses, fortified towers\pele towers and minor castles. However, the castle we see today is no more than a ‘faux’ castle….a fake built to indicate the power and wealth of the Lowther family. The main range of buildings, as shown in the photo above, are built over the footings and foundations of towers from the various periods mentioned above.

This area has been the seat of the Lowthers since the reign of Edward I, and the family have been knighted almost continually since this period, from generation to generation.

Today, the castle is empty and in places in danger of complete collapse. It seems that the expense of running such a splendid and massive castle or house, was too much for the Lowthers, and in 1935 it was closed. Most of the interior was removed and perhaps sold, including roofing materials and marble floors and staircases. The castle isn’t open to the public at the moment, although it undergoing some reconstruction and consolidation to ensure that further collapse is halted.

As the castle is built on private land, it's extremely difficult to get a good, close up photo of it. There is a footpath that runs through the park, enabling closer inspection, so a return visit will be necessary in future.

This photo shows the castle from the earthwork remains that can be found on the footpath that runs nearby.