Monday, July 17, 2006

Barker Tower and Lendal Tower, York

Barker Tower and Lendal Tower,
York,
North Yorkshire

Barker and Lendal Towers, sit either side of Lendal Bridge over the River Ouse. The bridge links Station Road with Museum Street, and was built in 1863 by Thomas Page. Before the bridge was built, the river was cross using a ferry. The towers would have been used to defend the gap in the city's walls that the river created, and to offer a point at which tolls could be collected for goods being shipped in and out of the city.

Lendal Tower

Lendal Tower lays on the North banks of the River Ouse and if first mentioned in historical documents in 1315, as the 'turrim Sancti Leonardi'. At this time, the tower was circular with a staircase turret on one side. The tower was described as 'a great tower with a chain of iron to cast over the Ouse' referring of course to the chain that would have been strung between Lendal Tower and Barker Tower on the opposite banks. The keepers of this chain, are named, in documents dating from 1380, as John de Poynton at Barker Tower, and Thomas Smyth at St Leornards, or as we know it, Lendal Tower.

Above. A view of Lendal tower on the banks of the flooded River Ouse. 

The tower has been altered over the years, so that it does not now display its circular form. Only on the river side of the walls, can the round walls be seen. It was repaired in 1584 and 1585, and had its roof replaced in 1598.

Above. A view of the rear of Lendal Tower.

A proposal was put forward in 1616, to use the tower to house machinery to provide the city with fresh water from the river, but it wasn't until 1674 this scheme was actually undertaken. The tower was rented out on a lease of 500 years, repaired and raised to house the machinery. A pump was inserted into the tower, powered by a water wheel. This was later replaced by a wheel powered by a horse.

Above. A view of Lendal Tower above the River Ouse.

Drawings and sketches dating to before 1846, show the tower at its post 1674 height, whilst later sketches, dated to after the 1850's, show the tower much as we see today, slightly reduced in height, sometimes partially submerged beneath the swollen waters of the Ouse.

Barker Tower

The Barker Tower lies on the South banks of the Ouse, and would have been used to secure the other end of the chain across the river. This tower, like Lendal Tower, served both a defensive and a commercial use.

Above. Barker Tower from the bridge.

This tiny river side tower is first mentioned in records dating from 1380. From early sketches and drawings, it is evident that the Barker tower hasn't changed much over the years. The most visible difference is the inclusion of windows just beneath the eaves of the roof. These windows were originally the tower's crenellations.

Above. Barker Tower viewed between the walls and the bridge. 

Up until about 1863, the tower was traditionally let to the Ouse ferrymen, who were responsible for ferrying men and goods between the North and South river banks here.

Sunday, June 25, 2006

Hornby Castle, Hornby

Hornby Castle
Hornby
Lancashire

Hornby castle sits on a hill overlooking the village of Hornby in Lancashire, just off the A683 to Lancaster.

The castle consists of an 18th century house, built around a 16th century keep\tower, all that remains of the previous castle. The tower was largely rebuilt\remodelled during the 16th century. It measures some 11 by 9 metres and has a spiral stair turret that rises above the roof line of the tower. The frontage of the house was remodelled by Sharpe and Paley between 1849 and 1852, and then again by Paley and Austin in 1881, and between 1889 and 1891. The result is a gothic style house, cum castle, with castellated turrets and walls, and a collection of heraldic coats of arms inset in wall niches.

The castle is privately owned, and only opened on infrequent occasions at the behest of the current owners. The castle is visible perched amidst the trees as you drive towards Hornby on your way to Ingleton or Kirkby Lonsdale.

The castle was most likely built as a direct replacement for the earlier motte and bailey (Castle Stede) down by the river Lune.

Sunday, June 04, 2006

Beetham Hall, Beetham, Cumbria

Beetham Hall,
Beetham,
Cumbria

Beetham is a large complex of medieval buildings and walls, sitting about two hundred yards off the A6, and near to the village of Beethom.

The site consists of the main defensive hall, and a number of out buildings, as well as the remains of a curtain wall with looped holes in it. The curtain wall is around 1 metre thick, and sits between the hall and the road.

The hall is now attached to a farm house, and was once an important fortified mansion with a large deer park. The main hall has elaborate Gothic windows, with a great part of the building in ruins. The hall was owned by the Beethams until passing to the Stanleys in 1485. In 1644, it was taken over by a Thomas Fairfax. Eventually it came into the hands of the Clifford family (of Pendragon and Brougham to name a few, fame) Then in 1767 the Wilsons of Dallam took it over. A farmhouse with the date 1653 on its door lintel now occupies the western side of the site. Part of it was a wing of the old priests house.

The hall and tower is visible from the A6, and there is a layby nearby from which the curtain wall and the buildings can be viewed. If you undertake the Limestone Link walk, the second part of the walk takes you behind the hall, affording views not usually seen.

Wraysholme Tower, Allithwaite

Wraysholme Tower,
Allithwaite,
Cumbria

Wraysholme Tower is about two miles outside of the village of Allithwaite in Cumbria, just off the B5277.

The tower was built by the Harringtons, a powerful local family in the 14th, 15th and 16th centuries. The tower would once have been attached to a hall house, but this medieval building has long since been replaced by the building seen today...built in 1848. Some of the walls in the this building are thicker than one would expect, suggesting that some of the earlier building was incorporated into the mid 19th century rebuild.

The photo above shows the still surviving, and still usable, stair case. This is hidden in the South West wall corner and provides access to the first and second floors, and finally the roof.

The photo above shows the South facing wall of the tower, with the stair turret hidden in the left hand side wall of the tower. The projection on the right hand side of the tower is the garderobe tower. The small bartizan is missing from the right hand tower.

The tower's walls are around 1.4metres thick, and all in all it is in good condition. The tower was originally three storeys tall, with battlements and turrets. A fire a few years back resulted in the flat roof being replaced with a steepled roof, and much of the interior being destroyed.

In the book "The remains of John Briggs" by John Briggs we are told that "an intrepid knight, named Harrington, fixed his residence at Wraysholme. He erected the tower, which alone remains to mark the spot where he passed his days. He constructed the walls of stones, and cemented them with lime and ox blood, designing them to exist till the world itself should sink in ruins."

The book goes onto to explain how Sir Edgar Harrington was responsible for the death of the last wolf in England (according to legend) when he managed to slay a wolf that was living in the forests of Cartmel, when it was trying to attack a 'fair young maiden'.

The small bartizans would once have been seen at all four corners of the tower's roof, but the South Eastern one has been destroyed at some point. These small tower pinnacles would most likely have been for show rather than for any defensive use...giving any visitors a grand view of the tower as they approached it from a distance.

The tower can be viewed from the road at fairly close quarters. I was lucky on the day I visited, as the farmer kindly agreed to give me a brief guided tour, resulting in a climb to the top of the tower. Climbing to the roof, the small bartizans can be seen at close hand. Although there would once have been a roof\wall walk, the new\recent roof means that this has all but gone. Now only one side of the roof walk is passable...but from here, three of the towers corner bartizans can be viewed.

This interior view demonstrates that the second floor has been removed and the whole tower, now used as a vehicle store, is open from the first floor to the roof.

The banked entrance to the right of the photo above, is recent, and makes use of an entrance knocked through the wall in recent years.

This view shows the tower butting onto the 19th century hall\house.

This great view shows the stair case buried in the interior of the wall. As mentioned above, the stair case still allows access to the first and second floors and the wall\roof walk. It's likely that this tower was built as a show of status by the Harrington family. The lack of any vaulted basement indicates that defensibility was not a primary function...and that it was most likely built as a manorial site, designed to be visible to all who visited and to indicate the family's power and local political sway.

The tower can be viewed from the roadside, although a winter or autumn visit is recommended as the hedges and trees at the roadside can form a thick barrier against good views.

Monday, May 29, 2006

Dunollie Castle, Oban, Scotland

Dunollie Castle
Oban,
Scotland

Dunollie castle is built on the headland at the entrance to Oban Bay. The remains consist of a tower house with a courtyard, and traces of a wall circling the summit of the headland.

Above. Dunollie Castle from Cnoc Moine, looking West across Oban Bay (from personal collection)

The castle was built in the 12th century, probably by Ewan MacDougall, however the surviving remains of the tower house date from the 15th century. The only remaining portion of the curtain wall, is around 15 feet wide and precariously perched atop the summit.

The castle is visible as you sail into Oban Bay, shrouded in trees and covered in ivy and creepers.

In 1746, the castle was abandoned by the MacDougalls, in favour of Dunollie House just down the road.

Duart Castle, Isle of Mull, Scotland

Duart Castle
Isle of Mull
Morvern
Scotland

The castle of Duart sits on a headland overlooking Duart Bay in the Sound of Mull. The castle is most likely to have been built sometime in the 13th century, although it’s not been possible to date the buildings exactly. When the castle was acquired by the MacLeans in the 14th century, a rebuilding and extension period was undertaken, whereby buildings that were previously erected within the castle walls were demolished, and a substantial tower house was built.

The curtain wall, the kitchen and a well are all that now remain of the original 13th century structure.

Above. View of the castle looking North West, sailing towards the Sound of Mull.

Further alterations were made in the 16th century, when more accommodation was added at the expense of buildings in the courtyard.

Above. Another view of the castle looking North West, with Dun da Ghaoithe in the background.

In 1674, the castle was bought by the Campbell Earls of Argyll, and was regularly garrisoned with troops. Soon after this time, the castle was beginning to deteriorate, and by 1748, the tower house was roof-less, and many other buildings ruinous.

Above. View of the castle looking West.

The castle was re-acquired by the MacLeans in 1911, and was partially rebuilt a year later.

Ardtornish Castle, Morvern, Scotland

Ardtornish Castle
Ardtornish Point
Nr Lochaline
Morvern
Scotland

Ardtornish Castle was once the seat of the high chiefs of the Donald Clan, from the early 14th to late 15th century. The castle is sited on a headland in the Sound of Mull, about a mile south east of the village of Lachaline. The castle was possibly built in the second half of the 13th century, and probably abandoned by the end of the 17th century.

The main ruins that can be seen today, consist of the remains of the Hall house, rising around 32 feet above the sea below it. Traces of other buildings can still be seen on the North side of the hall. A small boat house has been identified, as has a kiln. There are no defensive earth works at the site, either on the sea ward or land ward side of the castle. It appears that the natural position of the castle was enough to ward off potential attackers.The castle was restored between 1910 and 1915, albeit badly, with much of the outer walls refaced. Many of the windows were altered or even blocked up, and many of the rooms that can still be seen are full of debris from collapsed walls and roofs.

The surviving walls of the hall house are around 9 feet thick in places, and rise to around 16 feet at their highest points. The hall house, shown in both photos here, measures around 55 by 30 feet, and is built upon a rocky outcrop, no doubt providing yet further stability and strength for this well placed castle. Access to Ardtornish was mainly by sea, and the beach is littered with tiny coves and inlets in which small boats could be moored. You are able to get to the castle's remains, but it involves a trek of some seven or eight miles. From Ardtornish village, there is a track that runs along the East shores of Loch Aline. As the headland of Ardtornish Point comes into view, you have to leave the track, and continue South for about three quarters of a mile. The castle lays directly in front of you.

Sunday, May 07, 2006

The Mayburgh Henge, Eamont Bridge

The Mayburgh Henge
Eamont Bridge
Nr Penrith
Cumbria

Mayburgh lays just off the B5230, the road that leads to Yanwath Hall. It is set back off the road about a hundred and fifty yards. The henge is visible from King Arthur’s Round Table, the entrance clearly discernable.

The henge is a late Neolithic monument, with the earthworks surviving nearly intact. The encircling bank is nearly 7 metres high at its highest point, and surrounds a flat interior measuring around 90 metres in diameter. The bank is nearly 45 metres wide at its widest point.

The bank is constructed of pebbles probably carried by hand from the nearby River Eamont. The single entrance is on the East side of the bank.

There is a single standing stone in the centre of the remains, although there are suggestions that there may have been as many as eight at some time. It’s rather surprising that the henge has never been excavated.

There is ample parking at the foot of the henge and it’s open all year round.

King Arthur's Round Table, Eamont Bridge

King Arthur’s Round Table
Eamont Bridge
Nr Penrith
Cumbria

The earthworks of King Arthur’s Round Table consist of an almost circular bank with a ditch that runs around the interior of the remains. Within the remains there is a raised circular platform that doesn’t have any antiquity at all. It is reputed that a local landlord had earth tipped into the centre of the remains for the intention of having ‘tea-parties’ here!!

The remains have been damaged on two sides by the A6 and the B5320, which leads to Yanwath. The remains sit right next to the roads and are readily accessible.There is a clear entrance break in the encircling bank, and it is understood that there was once an entrance also on the opposite side of the earthworks. The second entrance was destroyed when the B5230 was built. This second entrance had two standing stones but these have long since gone.

The only find from the centre of the earthworks, were the remains of a trench, widely believed to have been the remains of a disturbed burial. Nothing of any significance has been unearthed at this site.The earthworks are open all year round and there is parking across the road.

About 200 hundred yards up the road, within the grounds of Lowther Park, lay the remains of Little Round Table.....the remains of a smaller 'henge'. I couldn't find these remains, and will probably return at a later date to search for them again.

Yanwath Hall, nr Penrith

Yanwath Hall
Yanwath
Nr Penrith
Cumbria

Yanwath Hall has to be one of the most beautiful and complete pele towers I’ve come across so far. It sits just off the B5320 about two miles from the earthworks of the Mayburgh Henge and King Arthur’s Round Table.

The pele portion of the building is a 14th century defensive structure, joined to a mostly 15th century hall. The tower has had some minor rebuilding done to it during the Elizabethan period, namely the addition of windows at the ground floor.

The tower retains its battlements, although the flat roof has been replaced by a steepled tiles roof. The whole structure has a partially enclosed courtyard at the rear, probably dating from the same period as the hall. The courtyard is entered through a 14th century gatehouse.

The de Suttons owned the tower through much of the early 14th century, later passing to the Threlkeld and then to the Lowthers. The tower can be approached down a private road as far as the railway bridge. From here good views can be had of the front of the tower and the hall.

Above. Old print of Yanwath Hall looking towards the enclosed courtyard to the rear of the hall and tower.

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Collinfield, Kendal

Collinfield
Kendal
Cumbria

Collinfield sits between Pembroke Court and Clifford Drive in Kendal. These two roads give a clue to the importance of the house, and its one time owner. The house was built in around 1600, and retains many of its original features. These include the thick walls, a courtyard, and the original gate. Its first known owner, according to records dated 1620, was Jeffrey Sedgwick. The house later came under the ownership of Anne Clifford, Countess of Pembroke and Montgomery. Anne is famously linked with the restoration of such buildings as Pendragon Castle in Mallerstang, Brougham Castle near Penrith, Skipton Castle, Appleby Castle and many other churches and castles throughout the North and North West.

Collinfield was used by Anne as a rest house, when she was travelling between Skipton and Appleby. Evidence of both her ownership and the time she spent at the house in Kendal are her initials above the main oak door, which is original, and a latin inscription dated 1663, mounted above the door of the porch. The inscription reads:

"NVNC MEA, MOX HVIVS SED POSTEA, NESCIO CVIVS." Which translates as "Now mine, presently his, Afterwards I know not whose."
It's possible that the Countess brought this inscribed tablet from Brougham Castle, one of her favourite haunts.

The house was remodelled by George Sedgwick, secretary to the countess of Pembroke, when he acquired it in 1668. On his death in 1685, the house became the residence of the Chambre family, and was subsequently purchased, in 1747, from George Sedwick's nephew by Mr John Yeates, in whose family the house remains to this day. The building exhibits later additions and features, but still retains is medieval character. It is often documented that this house can be classified as a 'fortified' dwelling...though, secure as it may have been, with its courtyard, it does not seem to display any fortifications per-se.

In Kirkland, less than half a mile away, there is a building called Pembroke House, which, due to the name, Pembroke, is sometimes associated with Lady Anne Clifford.

Built sometime in the latter part of the 17th century, the building is one of Kendal's last surviving cruck built houses....ie with complex timber roof beams.

Blind Beck, Kendal

Blind Beck
Kendal
Cumbria

Blind Beck, Kendal, is the original boundary between Kendal and Kirkland. Between 1090 and 1097, Ivo de Taillebois gave Kendal's church and its lands (the Kirk lands) to the Benedictine Abbey of St Mary in York. This part of the town is still known today as Kirkland, and the northern boundary is still known as Blind Beck.

The above photo shows where the boundary between Kendal and Kirkland lies on Highate. The beck literally slices the two 'parishes' in two.


Above. Blind Beck and the Kent flooding Kirkland.

The beck rises somewhere on the Kendal fells, its source hidden and possibly alluding to its name 'Blind'. The beck flows through Kirkbarrow, the lands to the East of Abbot Hall, between the Abbot Hall carpark, and the Abbot Hall Park, and into the River Kent.

Kirkland and Kendal were at one point two seperate entities, each with its own church, and manorial centres. Kendal's manorial centre was of course the castle on Castle Hill, and Kirkland's manorial centre was (allegedly) the motte and bailey castle on Castle Howe.

Goods bound for market in Kendal were subjected to a quality check before they entered the parish. Those goods found to be of poor quality, were not permitted to be sold from the markets of Kendal, and could only therefore be sold in Kirkland. Hence the different characters of both parishes lives on to this day.