Thursday, August 30, 2007

Waberthwaite, St John

St John.
Waberthwaite
Cumbria

This tiny church sited on the banks of the River Esk, consists of a single chamber, ie; the church is basically a single room from end to end. It is generally accepted that this church has 12th or 13th century foundations, although much of what can be seen today is of the 15th century and later, for example the vestry, dating from the late 18th century.


There are several interesting items still visible at the church.

Outside is a tall standing cross shaft. It’s estimated that this could date from around 850 to 1000AD The cross shaft bears the images of horses and people interwoven with celtic knots and weave work.


The other cross shaft lays within the church, and is probably dates from the same period as the standing one. This stone once formed part of the threshold of the church and as such has suffered under the feet of countless worshipers and is now nearly blank.



Hung on the North wall are the Royal coats of arms of George III, dated 1778.

In the West wall there is a 15th century window, although this dating does not include the stained glass window, indeed the only stained glass window in this small church. The other windows all date from the 16th and 17th centuries.

The pulpit is carved from oak, and is dated 1628.

Either side of the stained glass window are two huge wooden tablets, containing the Apostle’s Creed and the Lord’s prayer, and the Ten Commandments. It became law in 1561 for all churches to display the Commandments, and this dating, together with the style of lettering used, possibly suggests some time in the late 16th century as their dating.



The church has three bells in total. Two are hung in the tiny bell cote on the West wall of the church, whilst the third is sat on the window sill of the West window. The two bells mounted in the bell cote are thought to be from the late 15th century, and one is inscribed in Latin with “Saint James Sir Thomas Walker”. This inscription is thought to relate to the possible dedication of the first church at Waberthwaite to St James, and also to Sir Thomas Walker, who was Rector at the church from 1439. The second bell is inscribed with “King Henry VI”. This strange inscription is possibly related to the fact that the king sought refuge at near by Muncaster Castle after the battle of Towton in 1461. The third bell is dated 1882, and comes from the now demolished church of St Luke at Waberthwaite which was pulled down when the building became unsafe.

Castle Haugh, Gisburn

Castle Haugh
Gisburn
North Yorkshire

The remains of Castle Haugh sit next to the River Ribble (to the West) and the A682 (to the East) The castle looks out over a crossing of the river, and there is likely another motte defending a ford some way South West on the opposite banks of the river.

The castle was most likely established by William de Percy sometime in the 11th century.


The remains consist of a motte standing to around 6m high, eroded to the West where it fronts onto the cliff overlooking the river, and partly damaged. The summit of the motte is dished, either through quarrying or as a result of the removal of a small building\tower. The bailey has been lost to the river below it.


The motte is surrounded by a well preserved ditch which is around 2m deep in some places.

The site is easily accessable via a footpath that passes right next to the foot of the motte.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Rampside, St Michael

St Michael
Rampside
Cumbria

The village of Rampside is sandwiched between Barrow and Roe Island. The church itself is a bland affair, built of plain grey stone with plain tall arched windows.

There are claims that the church is built on the site of an ancient barrow. Whether this is true or not is difficult to tell. Certainly the ground on which the church is built is raised above the surrounding countryside, although this may just be down to the building work involved in erecting it.


The church used to be a chapel of ease under Dalton, but now falls under the diocese of Carlisle.

During the 1860’s the then sexton of the church, William Jackson found a stone axe-hammer probably of a Neolithic period, and a Viking sword, known as the Rampside Sword. A large slab was also discovered over the top of a skeleton, with a cross carved into its surface. The slab is now kept inside the church, and just my luck, it was locked when I visited.

The present church was built in 1840, with a new porch and vestry being added in 1866. This building replaces an earlier church, possibly dating from 1621, although all that remains of the earlier church is a date-stone marked “1621”, built into the wall.

The church fell into disrepair in the past, and the Sexton was required to “keep the church and pews cleanly swept and sufficiently dried” in 1879. A new chancel was built in 1892, the money required being raised by public subscription. Further work was done in 1920, and yet more in 1997 when the vestry, kitchen and toilets were built.

There is one stained glass window of note in the church, and that is the East window. This was created by Shingley and Hunt of Lancaster and London, and depicts the crucifixion. The window was presented to the church in memoriam to Thomas Huddleston, MP of Ulverston.

Aldingham, Church of St Cuthbert

St Cuthbert's
Aldingham
Cumbria
This beautiful church sits on the shores of Morecambe bay sheltered behind a stocky sea wall. The wall has meant that the church has survived the relentless pounding of the sea that has gradually eroded the village nearby.

It is thought that the church was founded in 1147, and the surviving portions of this original building are thought to be the round arches and pillars that mark out the South arcade. An additional Norman arch has recently been discovered in the West wall of the South aisle.



Sometime between 1200 and 1250, the chancel was extended by a further 15 feet, but traces of the original chancel can still be seen. The tower was built in around 1350 and it was during this time that the Norman windows were replaced. Only one Norman window of this period remains.

There is apparently no evidence that the site was occupied by any type of religious building before the church was founded, but a fragment of saxon cross has been found built into the east wall just below the window. This cross fragment perhaps dates to the time when the monks of Lindesfarne brought relics of St Cuthbert to the mainland. Sketchy evidence exists (from a local grave digger) that there are Viking burials on the North side of the grave yard.



A decorated grave slab can be seen in the chancel, possibly from the grave of Goditha of Scales. The floral design apparently suggest that this item dates from the 13th century, and suggests that Goditha may have been an abbess. The grave slab was discovered by the Reverend Dr Stonard when major rebuilding work was carried out on the North aisle in the 1840’s. It was during this period of rebuilding that the West door was opened up, the South porch was demolished, new pews were fitted, the nave was re-paved and a new ceiling was put it.

Two items of interest exist inside and outside the church. One is the squint, the hole in the wall that joins the nave and the South aisle. This enabled those sat in the aisle to see the vicar as he preached his sermon, and for the vicar to see the congregration. The leper hole in the East wall of the church, is clearly visible from the outside of the building, and also through to the interior just above the altar.

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Lowick Hall, Lowick

Lowick Hall
Lowick
Cumbria

About two miles West of Spark Bridge on the A5092 lays the tiny village of Lowick. The manor in and around Lowick has existed since the end of the 12th century, and was originally owned by William de Lancaster, 5th baron of Kendal. William granted the lands to Robert de Turribus sometime during the reign of Henry II. The manor then passed from Gilbert de Turribus, son of Robert, to William de Lofwic. In time the manor passed, by marriage, to the Ambrose family, in whose ownership it remained until 1684. It's likely that the pele tower was built during this period, possibly a little earlier. It seems that the last Ambrose, John, died with no male heir, so the manor then passed to John Latus, his nephew. John Latus married a member of the Hudleston family....of Millom Castle, by whom he had a son, Ferdinando Latus. The manor then passed into the Blencowe family by marriage.

The tower portion of the hall, isn't as old as the manor, but probably dates from the 15th or 16th century. The building has undergone many rebuilds and extensions. Looking at the photo, the remains of the pele tower are on the left of the building, with the layout resembling other converted pele towers in the county, namely Godmond Hall, Selside Hall and Preston Patrick Hall to name but a few.

Documents suggest that there were two pele towers at this site, possibly one predating the surviving tower, as all that remains of the second are reputed footings. Unfortunately, as this is a private dwelling I was unable to pay closer inspection. The best views of the hall can be had from the nearby church yard, although even then, trees between the hall and the church yard can block the view.

Ulpha Old Hall, Ulpha

Ulpha Old Hall
Ulpha
Cumbria

The remains of Ulpha Old Hall lay to the North of the Duddon valley, and the to the West of Coniston. The roads leading to the newer farm are very narrow and this is truly 'out in the sticks' such is the remoteness of the area.

The remains consist of the east facing wall with the gaping remains of the main doorway, upstanding walls to the north, south and east (although only to about ground floor height) and several pieces of disconnected wall. The thickness of these surviving portions of wall are immense. Most parts are around 1.2m thick, but the wall with two surviving fire places is about 1.6m thick, no doubt in order to provide additional protection in the weakend part of the tower.

It's believed that the tower was built rather late for a pele tower...sometime between 1580 and 1620, when the troubles between England and Scotland were drawing to a close. In three portions of the walls, there are small looped windows...small enough to see out of, and perhaps fire a weapon, but too small to gain entry. Documentation on the internet seems to suggest that the ruins were\are due for demolition. Thankfully this hasn't happend and hopefully the remains will survive even longer.

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Whitby Abbey, Whitby

Whitby Abbey
Whitby
North Yorkshire

Battered by storms, religious turmoil, the English Reformation, German battle ships and age, the remains of St Hilda’s Abbey remain to this day, an iconic piece of Whitby’s history.

Perched atop East Cliff with views out across the sea to the North, West and East, the remains of the abbey overlook the town of Whitby below and to the West. Sited next to the medieval church of St Mary, the ruins are extensive and offer a good few hours of intensive exploration.

Founded in 657 as a double house priory by the Saxon King of Northumbria, Oswy, the site’s original name was Streanshalh (also the ancient name of Whitby). Lady Hilda, the niece of Prince Edwin, was appointed the priory’s Abbess, and both Benedictine monks and nuns lived and worshipped there. The abbey was home to Caedmon, a well known Saxon poet. When Hilda died, she was canonized, and her relics and those of King Oswy meant that the abbey had a steady income. This money was used to expand the abbey and its buildings. Another princess, Aelfled took over as Abbess. Records of the abbey and its success or failure are then hard to come by and not much is known from this time.

In 664, the abbey was the chosen site of a Synod that would later become known as the Synod of Whitby, a meeting of Roman and Ionean clerics. The Northumbrian Celtic Christian king Oswy eventually ruled that his kingdom would observe the traditions and customs of Rome rather than the Irish monks of Iona, changing the face of Christianity in the North East of England.
In 867 the site was almost completely destroyed by Danish raiders and subsequently abandoned. Indeed, such was the destruction, that the abbey was not re-founded until 211 years later, in 1087. The new abbey was rebuilt by a soldier called Regenfrith, on the orders of William de Percy. This abbey lasted until 1540, when Henry VIII destroyed the abbey and all those around the country during the English Reformation. On the 14th of December, 1539, the abbey was handed over to Henry VIII’s commissioners, under the Dissolution of the Monasteries act. William Davell was the last abbot of Whitby, and he passed a community worth £437 to the crown. The buildings and the grounds were leased to Richard Cholmley in March of 1540. His family took up residence in the Abbot’s lodges. Landscaped gardens were planted and the house was extended. These gardens and the house now form the backbone of the English Heritage visitor’s centre. During the 17th century, the extension to the house lost its roof in a violent storm and was never repaired. The building eventually collapsed, along with major parts of the abbey’s church….firstly the nave in 1762, and then the tower in 1830.
The remains that can be seen today, were probably started in the 1220’s, replacing the earlier buildings, the foundation lines of which can still be seen in the grass. The early medieval gothic structure of the abbey are similar in design to the whole of, or parts of similar buildings of the time such as Glasgow Cathedral and the transepts of York Minster. The abbey would have been a highly decorative building, painted and with many stained glass windows. All these have gone now, and the elaborate carving is all that remains to demonstrate the amount of creative effort that was invested here.
The West front of the abbey was originally an impressive façade facing out over the town below it, and was reputedly still standing in the late 1700’s. Some parts of the masonry began to deteriorate from this time on, and with the help of a sea borne attack by German navy ships, completely collapsed in 1914. During excavations in the 1920’s Saxon tomb stones were unearthed, giving an insight into the first abbey of 657. Some of these tomb stones have been left in situ, and some have been moved to the visitor’s centre. The site is not only a great historical place to visit, but it offers great views out across the sea over Whitby and beyond. I would strongly recommend climbing the 199 steps up to the church of St Mary, paying a visit to this medieval church, and then making your way to the abbey.

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Walworth Castle, Darlington

Walworth Castle
Nr Darlington
County Durham

Situated about 7 miles North West of Darlington, Walworth castle dominates the deserted medieval village of Walworth a few hundred yards away to the North. The whole landscape around the castle is testament to the strength of the manor that once held feudal sway over this area.

The castle as we see it today essentially dates from the early 1600’s, although the structure is said to contain masonry from a much older building. Documents from 1466 describe the manor as “one chief messuage with divers outhouses”, so basically a main house with a collection of outhouses nearby. The castle started as a U shaped building, with a rear wing, and the two towers standing guard over the entrance into the courtyard. Whether the open end of the courtyard was protected by a wall or a wooden palisade is unknown, but it’s likely that there was some sort of adjoining structure between the towers.

The manor was built on the ruins of a much earlier castle, possibly dating from the 1150’s, when the Hansard family built the nearby village of Walworth and the original castle. The estate contained lands to the tune of around 1100 acres. The nearby village was probably abandoned in the mid 1300’s, possibly due to the plague. The remains of the village can still be seen as earthworks in nearby fields. Arial photos clearly show the remains of buildings and track ways. As a result of the plague, and the affects that it undoubtedly had on the nearby villages, the estate including the castle fell into disrepair.

In 1367, Ralph Neville, later to become 1st Earl of Westmorland, was granted ownership of the manor of Walworth. Neville held sway over vast areas of the North East, including the areas surrounding Raby Castle and large parts of Richmondshire.

By 1391, the castle and the manor were back in the hands of the Hansard family, when Robert Hansard claimed the estates on behalf of his son, Richard. The fortunes of the castle seem to have improved from here, and the estates stayed in the Hansard family until 1539. It was then, that the Hansard estates were transferred by marriage to the Ayscough family, when Elisabeth Hansard married Sir Francis Ayscough. Their only child, William inherited the estates on the death of his parents, eventually marrying the Earl of Lincoln’s daughter in around 1563. Childless, and therefore with no heir, the couple sold the castle and the estates to Thomas Jennison in 1579. The castle and the associated estates remained in the Jennison family for some time.

In 1603, the castle received a royal visitor, in the form of King James 1st. As the king was travelling to London to his coronation to become the first monarch to reign over both Scotland and England, he was entertained at the castle on the 14th of May. The king was so impressed with the lavish entertainment that was bestowed upon him at the castle, that he knighted Elizabeth’s son in law, George Freville.

When Elizabeth Jennison died, in 1605, the castle and the estates were valued at £954 10 1d.

Between 1634 and 1681, the castle was a hotbed of Catholic rebellion, and fell into ruin as a result of the activities of the family against the Protestant faith and the crown. The castle was sold in 1754, when the Jennison family finances were found to be almost bankrupt due to the amount of money spent on the lavish decoration inside the castle. Matthew Stephenson, a wealthy wine merchant from Newcastle bought the castle for £16000. The castle was then sold once more in 1775, to John Harrison another wealthy merchant from Newcastle. In 1819, John Harrison died, leaving the castle to his only daughter, Ann. She married General Arthur Aylmer in 1825. During his ownership, the castle was renovated and re-decorated, with much of the dilapidation resulting from years of neglect, being repaired and the structure of the castle being made good. The Aylmer family died out in 1931, resulting in the castle being purchased by brothers Neville and Charles Eade. During the 2nd World War, the castle was rented out to the Durham Light Infantry, who used it as a prisoner of war camp for high ranking German and Italian prisoners. In 1950, the castle was purchased by Durham County Council who subsequently turned it into a girl’s school.

The building is today used as a hotel, hosting receptions, weddings and conferences.

There is little information regarding the original structure, except in the context of a collection of possibly fortified buildings providing protection to the nearby village. The village and the castle were on a route used by various invading Scottish armies, so protection was necessary for the population, probably on a regular basis. The oldest part of the current structure is the South West tower, the left hand tower in all the photos here. Some bricked up looped windows can still be seen in this tower, indicating that it was built as a defensive building.

The courtyard, now enclosed in a glass sun room, has spectacular pillared walls with original, possibly medieval windows still in situ.

To the South of the castle, the 18th\19th century haha wall is still intact, preventing cattle from entering the grounds of the castle, whilst preserving the view out across the fields.